Chablis faces a warming world

De Beru (left), who in 2016 lost her entire crop to frost, and her director of operations, Gaelle Ribe, on the family’s estate in Chablis, France. — ©2025 The New York Times Company

GOOD Chablis stands as the world’s most distinctive Chardonnay.

This conviction has long held sway among wine connoisseurs, reaffirmed by a remarkable bottle sampled during a visit to the region – a 2015 Montee de Tonnerre from William Fevre, one of Chablis’ esteemed producers.