EVERY morning before 6am, chef Motomichi Takeno heads to the Chow Kit market in Kuala Lumpur to select the freshest fish and vegetables available for his kitchen.
For the chef at the Embassy of Japan in Malaysia, choosing ingredients by himself is the first step in preserving the spirit of washoku, Japan’s traditional dietary culture that emphasises seasonality, freshness of ingredients, nutritional balance, and harmony with nature.
But in Malaysia, Takeno’s culinary journey has also taken on a distinctly local flavour.
By incorporating Malaysian ingredients such as durian, lemongrass and jackfruit into Japanese cuisine, he explored how food can serve as a bridge between cultures and deepen the ties between Japan and Malaysia.
“I am currently studying Malaysian cuisine, and at the same time, I am fascinated by Malaysia’s history and culture,” he said.
At the embassy, where he has served since 2024, Takeno prepares meals for guests from around the world, including Malaysians.
Rather than relying on a fixed menu, he designs dishes according to the guests’ backgrounds and preferences, taking into consideration factors such as religious dietary requirements, age and gender.
“I have created countless dishes. Personalised care, which is the essence of Japan’s culture of omotenashi or true hospitality, is something I have practised throughout my career,” he told Bernama.
For Takeno, his passion for food began at home, inspired by his mother’s cooking.
“As a chef, I believe that understanding the stories and cultural significance behind a dish brings an even greater depth to its flavour,” he added.
Takeno explained that washoku, which was inscribed on the Unesco Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2013, was built around four key characteristics: use of fresh ingredients, nutritional balance, expression of natural beauty, and close association with annual events.
This emphasis on freshness means chefs must be closely involved in sourcing their ingredients.
“Consequently, chefs who handle ingredients in Japanese cooking must also run around to source the very best materials,” he said.
Takeno, who previously served at the Permanent Delegation of Japan to Unesco office in Paris, France, said Japanese cuisine was also defined by its minimalist approach.
Rather than relying on strong or excessive flavours, the cuisine emphasises the quality and freshness of its ingredients, with dashi − a Japanese broth traditionally made from dried kelp and bonito flakes − serving as one of its foundations.
Takeno also shared insights into the discipline and values that shaped the Japanese culinary profession.
“In Japanese restaurants, if you cannot greet others in a loud, clear voice, no one will teach you how to cook.
“Even in culinary schools in Japan, the very first thing students are taught is how to greet people properly,” he said.
He also spoke about the demanding apprenticeship system that once defined traditional Japanese kitchens.
Around 70 years ago, aspiring chefs could enter restaurants as apprentices as young as 15, he said.
“They lived on the premises and were provided with food and accommodation, but received very low wages.
“The apprenticeship could last for years, with apprentices waking up as early as 4am to perform manual chores and working until late at night,” he added.
