The city’s main cathedral and the National Library, which can be seen at the back, were designed by German architect Carl Ludwig Engel. — Photos: GERALDINE FRIEDRICH/dpa
Helsinki's urban area contains more than 300 islands, with the total coastline measuring 131km. The Finnish capital with its 1.5 million inhabitants is largely shaped by the Baltic Sea. There is no questioning the city’s predominance as the prime urban – as well as cultural – centre in Finland.
The question is, how to properly take it all in? Here are five ways to experience Helsinki in all its aspects, including recreation, architectural design and maybe a repast of reindeer steaks.
1. Head to a sauna
Getting around on foot is usually a good way to approach cities, and Helsinki is no exception. If you arrive late in the afternoon and have checked into your accommodation, walk along Esplanadi Park for your first typically Finnish activity: to the Allas Sea Pool – an outdoor pool and sauna in one.
What’s special about this pool is its location, with a view of a giant Ferris wheel, an office building designed by renowned architect Alvar Aalto and the harbour promenade. The pool is located directly on the Baltic, so that there is an enclosed seawater pool, crisp and cold in winter.
After a sauna session the bath feels like your skin has been maltreated with a thousand needles, but you’ll quickly notice how your circulation has been revitalised.
The pool is heated at a steady 27°C. From the jetty you can watch sailing ships gliding past or the ferries on their way to the fortress island of Suomenlinna – a popular excursion destination and Unesco World Heritage Site.
The Oodi, Helsinki’s central library, is an architectural attraction. — Photos: GERALDINE FRIEDRICH/dpa
2. Library and museum visits
Back in downtown Helsinki, directly next to the railway station awaits the Oodi – the city’s central library which opened in 2018.
With its sweeping facades, it is not only an architectural attraction, but also a meeting point for urbanites.
People browse while waiting for their trains, diversion coming in the way of a public kitchen and a cinema. You can enjoy coffee with a view on the balcony in front of the upper glass facade. A special feature is the free sewing machines, which are put to good use. And a gaming room with games consoles.
Just around the corner is the Museum of Contemporary Art Kiasma, which is part of the Finnish National Gallery, as well as subterranean exhibition rooms of Amos Rex, named after the arts patron Amos Anderson.
The gallery contains Finland’s largest private collection and is a genuine magnet for visitors. It is located beneath the Lasipalatsi – glass palace – a functionalist office building from the 1930s.
Reopened in March, the Amos Rex is worth a visit for its futuristic interior courtyard alone where visitors can look down into the underground rooms through portholes.
Helsinki’s downtown Design District is home to a conglomeration of shops, galleries, restaurants and museums. It’s simply fun to stroll and look around. Make sure to check out the Design Museum.
Helsinki’s central station is one of many Art Nouveau buildings in the city.
3. Historicism to modernism
Architecture fans will certainly get their money’s worth in Helsinki: Bauhaus, historicism, classicism, Byzantine-Orthodox – the Finnish capital has it all. The many Art Nouveau buildings in the Punavuori district, some with ornamental facades, are striking. The main railway station is also designed in splendid Art Nouveau style.
And of course, there’s Alvar Aalto (1898-1976), Finland’s best-known architect. It was around the middle of the 20th century that this early advocate of modernism designed commercial buildings, office complexes and residential areas. There are special Aalto tours which also include his former residence and architectural office.
The Allas Sea Pool offers a view of a Ferris wheel and an office building designed by Alvar Aalto.
4. Subterranean swimming
This quirky recreation centre is located outside the city centre. Located below ground in a former bunker that was carved out of the rock, the Itakeskus Swimming Hall is a remnant from the Cold War era.
To this day there are bunkers beneath large expanses of Helsinki, providing enough space for the entire population in the event of an emergency. In the bunker swimming pool, visitors can do 50m laps and there is even a diving platform. And saunas, of course.
5. Finnish cuisine
If your stomach is growling after the swim, you can go shopping or eat in style at the Hakaniemen Kauppahalli market hall nearby. One of the most authentic of its kind in Finland, it is located not far from Hakaniemi metro station. You can either stock up there or dine on the second floor in the stylish Kirsikka restaurant.
In the central district of Kamppi, the Finnjävel Sali eatery serves cod, elk and reindeer, traditional components of Finnish cuisine with a modern twist. The Glass is where to go for brunch. When Finns are pressed for time, they don’t go to McDonald’s, Burger King and the like, but prefer the country’s own fast-food chain, Hesburger. – dpa
