Sitting on a trishaw decorated by dozens of plastic roses in the most shocking of colours, I found myself being “interrogated” by the elderly paddler. We were riding past Bulatan Tuan Padang – the big roundabout that also serves as a focal point in Kota Baru, Kelantan – when Pak Man began with his questioning.
With his warm and friendly personality, Pak Man was a natural at prying the most intimate details from his unsuspecting passengers.
But that curiosity came from a place of goodwill rather than blunt nosiness. So, I didn’t mind entertaining the man’s queries as we pedalled through the capital city.
“This is my first time in Kota Baru actually. The furthest I have ever been in Kelantan before this was Gua Musang for a work trip,” I said as we rode past the Kelantan State Museum, which is housed in the municipal council’s former building.
That revelation came as a shock, even to me, as soon as it escaped my mask-clad mouth. My father hails from Terengganu, and we would occasionally travel back for Chinese New Year and other religious celebrations such as ancestral prayers.
But Kelantan has always somehow eluded my travel radar, despite the state being so near my father’s hometown.
If it wasn’t for this particular assignment (which took place last year, during the recovery movement order phase), I might not have set foot in the north-easternmost state in Malaysia.
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When I told friends I was visiting Kelantan for the first time, many of them admitted that they have never visited the state before. In fact, it is not even on their list of places to travel to in Malaysia.
Statistically speaking, Kelantan is one of the least visited states in the country. In 2019, the state received only 11 million domestic visitors.
This is a far cry from the top three most visited places on the list compiled by the Department of Statistics: Selangor (33.6 million visitors), Kuala Lumpur (22.6 million visitors) and Sabah (22 million visitors).
The pandemic and various travel restrictions have understandably worsened Kelantan’s tourist arrivals. State Community Unity, Culture, Heritage and Tourism committee chairman Major (Rtd) Datuk Md Anizam Ab Rahman said only 2.5 million tourist arrivals were recorded last year.
But even before Covid-19, Kelantan has never exactly appealed to travellers. It’s a fact that was confirmed through several conversations I had with tourism stakeholders during my trip.
“Kelantan is a bit far behind (in development) compared to other states because of political reasons,” a tourism operator told me during dinner one night.
“But what we lack in infrastructure, I think we more that make up for it with our natural attractions and rich traditions,” he added.
If anything, Kelantan is certainly one of the most traditional and conservative states in Malaysia. Together with Terengganu, both states are great strongholds of beautiful Malay values and traditions.
Being the cradles of Malay culture also means that the states have ample selection of sumptuous Malay cuisines and delicacies for visitors to sample during their visit.
Now, I have been accustomed to the aforementioned food fact early in my life thanks to my father’s Terengganu roots. During festivities, my extended family in Kuala Terengganu will serve nasi dagang and nasi minyak at open houses instead of Chinese dishes. Whenever I’m back in Terengganu, I will always make a stop at the famous Nasi Dagang Atas Tol restaurant.
Until today, I would still take curry over soup in a heartbeat. But for those who can’t take spicy food, there are a variety of other Malay sweets and desserts to savour in Kelantan and Terengganu.
ALSO READ: Nasi kunyit helped me 'travel' to Penang from my kitchen in KL
One of the best places for a crash course on Kelantanese cuisines is the famous daily market, Pasar Siti Khadijah.
When I entered from Pintu Dua (Door Two) during my visit, my senses were immediately overwhelmed by the sights and scents of a variety of local traditional kuih and cakes.
In fact, I had one of the best kuih bahulu at this octagonal-shaped market named after Prophet Muhammad’s first wife (who happened to be a savvy businesswoman).
There are also other iconic dishes such as nasi tumpang, nasi kerabu, laksam and nasi ulam to try at the food court section of the market.
Visitors looking for a glimpse of daily life in Kelantan should just head here as there’s really no better place to be than at Pasar Siti Khadijah.
It dawned on me that perhaps the Malay phrase “tak kenal, maka tak cinta” (which also happens to be the title of a 1982 local hit by singers Roy & Fran) best sums up the appeal of Kelantan and Terengganu.
Once you have become acquainted with these east coast states, you will find that there is much to love. For those hoping to escape from the crowd of tourists at more popular states such as Selangor and Penang, Kelantan and Terengganu are great destinations to travel to once restrictions are lifted.
Whether you are a first time visitor or looking to re-discover these states on the east coast, read on for some notable sights and sounds to visit during your trip.
Visitors to Kelantan might immediately flock to the capital city of Kota Baru, which is understandable. It is after all a good gateway to the state thanks to the presence of the Sultan Petra Airport.
But travellers will find that many of Kelantan’s gems are peppered throughout the smaller towns in the state, which is better accessed with cars or buses.
Within the vicinity, visitors will find several majestic peaks (Gunung Ayam, Gunung Stong and Gunung Che Tahir just to name a few) as well as the multi-tiered Jelawang Waterfall.
A notable highlight is the Gua Ikan cave complex where visitors can catch sight of the God Light, a natural light phenomenon.
For something unique, the Pantai Suri Floating Market in Tumpat offers a riverside experience much like the ones found in Thailand. The first-ever Malaysian floating market opened in 2016 and is a popular spot for locals to visit on weekends. The boat ride from the Kuala Besar jetty takes about 15 minutes one-way.
A leisurely kind of boat ride is found along Sungai Pengkalan Datu, which offers visitors the chance to experience cruising on a traditional wooden boat known as the perahu kolek.
The community-based initiative takes visitors on river cruises along attractions such as a nira nipah (sea coconut) plantation, the scenic Ar-Rahman Mosque and a cute lighthouse by the seaside.
Back in Kota Baru, a trishaw tour is probably the best way to explore the city. While it may seem like a gimmicky thing that only clueless tourists do, trishaws are actually commonly utilised by the locals, who refer to it as “teksi”.
A good stopover during the tour is Jalan Dato Pati to see street art. Many of the back lanes of the buildings here have been revitalised with vibrant murals.
Today, it is one of the most hip places for locals and visitors to hang out.
For many travellers, Terengganu often brings to mind idyllic islands surrounded by azure blue waters. Well, that notion certainly is right. But that reputation has also unfortunately relegated the mainland, especially its capital Kuala Terengganu, to a mere waypoint to islands such as Redang, Kapas and Perhentian.
But if you stay long enough in Kuala Terengganu, you will find that there is much to discover. The most iconic landmark is the Crystal Mosque which is located within Taman Tamadun Islam (also known as the Islamic Civilisation Park). The mosque is unique as it is built entirely from steel and glass, giving it a crystal-like image.
Another unique mosque is the Masjid Terapung, a floating mosque in Kuala Ibai, about 10km away from the city centre. While in the city, drive past Istana Maziah, which is touted as one of the most beautiful buildings here.
The Terengganu Drawbridge, meanwhile, was a sensation when it opened in 2019. You will be able to see the first drawbridge in South-East Asia when you exit through the magical Turtle Alley over in Chinatown.
Opened in 2011, Turtle Alley in Jalan Kampung Cina is a themed pathway that features all things dedicated to turtles, one of the state’s icons.
For some shopping, Pasar Payang is the place where locals buy their daily provisions. If you’re looking for souvenirs, you will find items such as batik, kain sarung, food covers made from mengkuang leaves and brassware, just to name a few.
There are also many food stalls at the market that sell snacks such as dodol and kerepok lekor. My favourite local delicacy is roti paung, a kind of soft bun with a buttery centre that’s perfect for afternoon tea... with coffee.
Another must-try is ikan celup tepung (fish fried in flour batter), which the local affectionately refer to as ICT. You can try them at any of the seaside warung or stall at Pantai Teluk Ketapang.
Away from Kuala Terengganu, the state also has many outdoor splendours to discover. These include places like Tasik Kenyir, Cemerong Waterfall and Sekayu Waterfall, which make for wonderful weekend getaways for the whole family.
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