Balenciaga turns to Martine Rose to bring back its rebellious fashion identity


By AGENCY
Martine Rose is known for her oversized silhouettes and subculture-inspired aesthetic, drawing inspiration from London's underground music and youth scenes. Photo: AFP

Balenciaga picked Martine Rose as its new designer, after her predecessor stayed for less than two years in the role.

Parent company Kering announced Friday (Nov 6) that Rose will replace Pierpaolo Piccioli, who had taken over the artistic direction of Balenciaga in July 2025.

Rose starts on Nov 16, Kering said in a statement.

Piccioli’s classic and feminine style clashed with Balenciaga’s street-wear and edgy look that had become its trademark during Demna Gvasalia’s 10-year tenure at its creative helm.

Read more: Luxury fashion shake-up continues as Pierpaolo Piccioli exits Balenciaga

Demna, as he’s known, moved from Balenciaga to sister brand Gucci last year amid a broader reshuffle at Kering.

Rose, who founded her eponymous label in 2007 that’s now part of Tomorrow London Limited, draws her inspiration from "rave-era dance music”, and London’s subcultures, according to the owner’s website.

She previously worked with Demna while he was at Balenciaga and was a major influence for the oversized look the label became known for.

Kering chief executive officer Luca De Meo, who took over last year from carmaker Renault, has previously said that Balenciaga should be the group’s flagship brand that fosters an avant-garde spirit to lure younger consumers.

"Balenciaga has always been a house of radical creativity, challenging conventions and redefining the boundaries of fashion,” De Meo said in the statement, highlighting "her connection to the new generation”.

"Martine Rose embodies this spirit with a fresh, fearless and deeply contemporary vision,” it further read. 

Read more: Why are fashion heavyweights from the West taking up jobs in the East?

Kering shares have fallen about 37% so far this year amid a downturn in demand for luxury goods and continued trouble at its largest and most profitable Gucci label.

Saint Laurent, Kering’s second-biggest brand, has yet to name a new designer to replace Anthony Vaccarello who left last month after 10 years at the helm. – Bloomberg

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