Just a few seasons after designers championed shorts cut high on the thigh, menswear has taken a longer view. Hemlines are now dropping steadily towards the knee – or, in most cases, well below it.
The shift marks a notable departure from the mood of only a few years ago.
Actor Paul Mescal caused a stir at Milan Fashion Week in 2024 when he stepped out in a pair of striped Gucci cotton shorts that left little to the imagination. His thigh-baring look was considered daring.
“I’m a big advocate for men wearing shorter shorts,” he told GQ from the front row at the time.
Whether he still holds the same view is anyone’s guess, but fashion has since swung in the opposite direction, embracing oversized proportions and longer inseams once again.
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Pop star Justin Bieber appeared at this year’s Coachella in a pair of oversized, baggy shorts that pooled around the calf, creating a striking silhouette.
The look reflected a general shift that has been gathering momentum across fashion – the return of length, volume and a more relaxed approach to dressing.
He is far from alone. A growing number of high-profile figures have been embracing roomier cuts and longer inseams, signalling a broader move away from the thigh-grazing styles that dominated only a few seasons ago.
While the fabrics vary – from denim to chino twill – the common thread is clear: men’s shorts are becoming looser, longer and more voluminous than they have been in years.
Former professional footballer Marcelo Vieira is frequently seen in oversized shorts, particularly styles designed by Willy Chavarria.
Earlier this month, actor Timothee Chalamet was spotted courtside at an NBA game wearing a pair of oversized shorts.
To be fair, the demise of ultra-short shorts was already being predicted within months of Mescal helping to popularise the trend. Yet it is only now that the evidence appears impossible to ignore.
More fashion houses are sending long shorts down the runway. Some are so voluminous and elongated that they can easily be mistaken for culottes.
Sacai featured oversized long shorts in its Spring/Summer 2026 collection, pairing them with tailored jackets and crisp shirts, then grounding the looks with sandals. The effect was both polished and relaxed.
The IM Men line from Issey Miyake explored a similar idea for the same season. Some of the shorts were cut so long that they almost brushed the ankles.
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All of this raises an intriguing question – if a pair of shorts is no longer particularly short, do we still call them shorts?
In fashion, the answer appears to be yes. The category may be expanding beyond its traditional definition, but designers seem less concerned with semantics than with silhouette.
What matters is not where the hem falls, but the ease, proportion and attitude the garment brings to modern menswear.
And for now, at least, longer looks are winning the race.
