'A relaxed refinement': On the ground at the Spring/Summer 2026 menswear shows


By AGENCY
Tiny tassels approximate laces on snakeskin-soled sandals during men’s fashion week in Milan. Photo: The New York Times

There were very few low points during the recent menswear shows in Milan and Paris.

From Hermes’ sleek take on business casual, to Craig Green’s playful bright layers, to Junya Watanabe’s chintz blazers, the collections were full of easily wearable clothes that possessed an easy sophistication.

Perhaps no garments typified this better than the many luxurious pajama sets sent down the runways.

Read more: Fashion bros: Male celebrities flaunt their style at the latest menswear weeks

A relaxed refinement also characterised the fashion in the crowds, where suits were neither too baggy nor too form-fitting, pants were wider at the foot, shorts were shorter and black socks were worn instead of white ones, with boots, monk-strap shoes and Crocs.

As for faces in the crowds, in addition to rappers and K-pop stars, there were also NBA players like Anthony Edwards, Jerami Grant and James Harden, whose collective cool underscored that of the designers’ collections. – ©2025 The New York Times Company

This article originally appeared in The New York Times.


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