How menswear trends combine statement-making flair with play-it-cool style

Designers want men to explore their more creative side when it comes to dressing. Photo: Instagram/Kenzo

Menswear emerged out of the pandemic years with its sights set on a brighter future. At the start of 2023, there were predictions of booming growth.

One recent report by IMARC Group states that the market is expected to expand globally to US$792bil (approximately RM3.75 trillion) by 2028. It reached US$560.2bil (RM2.66 trillion) in 2022.

Statista predicts that menswear will grow by 2.98% (CAGR 2023-2028), in comparison to womenswear (2.90%).

It is not just about the numbers, though. Aesthetic-wise, menswear defies expectations.

According to Malaysian stylist Mughni Che Din, one of the most transformative trends today is the free-for-all aspect of men’s dressing.

Unconventional silhouettes can draw eyes on the runway. Photo: Comme Des Garcons

“Fashion-forward stars like Harry Styles and Jared Leto, coupled with luxury brands like Gucci, Louis Vuitton and Saint Laurent, spearhead this movement. These trailblazers are not just changing how we view fashion; they’re reshaping cultural narratives,” he notes.

“By blurring the lines of classic men’s attire, they are making a bold statement about authenticity, individuality and the vibrant tapestry of modern identity.”

Beyond clothes, men are also braver when it comes to accessories.

Matteo Battiston, chief design officer of EssilorLuxottica explains that the overall growth in the menswear market is a result of a heightened sense of fashion consciousness among men.

EssilorLuxottica is the world’s largest eyewear group.

“Since we are living in a moment of polycrisis, people look for escapism and ways to react – this could be one of the drivers of the growing interest in joyful accessories: a way to experiment and express yourself,” Battiston adds.

“This was also noticeable during the last fashion shows, where we saw many designers working on toned-down styles, but keeping accessories the focal points of brand identities.”

Read more: Makings of a cool man: Fashion essentials to really up your style game

The proof is on the runway

Trends seen on the Autumn/Winter 2023 runways showed that menswear had unleashed its sartorial creativity.

Designers sent out male models on the runways in suits with unconventional proportions. Outerwear designs resembled sci-fi costumes that calling them avant-garde didn’t seem a stretch.

Silhouettes were crazier than ever, too. Just think of a shirt with pointed shoulders and gigantic arms but cinched at the waist, and you get the picture.

Once purely utilitarian, chunky bomber and varsity jackets have become statement pieces for different looks.

Accessories have followed suit in bringing on the drama – or whimsy.

For example, Fendi designed a Baguette bag that looks like the classic French bread. Moschino somehow managed to transform a belt into a shawl, and a boot into a small bag.

There is also the JW Anderson clogs with a frog face on them, reminiscent of the frog wellington boots that Princess Diana dressed Prince William and Prince Harry in during the 1980s and 90s.

Battiston says the futuristic appeal of menswear spotlights dystopian fantasies.

In terms of eyewear seen on the runway, which also follows fashion trends, he points out that brands like Giorgio Armani, Emporio Armani, Oakley and Dolce & Gabbana are all boldly experimenting.

Despite the flamboyance, there is still an appetite for minimalist elegance among men.

“With less division between workwear and free time garments, the menswear market is changing, as consumers value relaxed and casual fit, letting go of old ‘uniforms’,” Battiston explains.

Minimalism still remain a key trend. Like this classic Giorgio Armani shades for men. Photo: EssilorLuxottica

Mughni agrees. He draws attention to the contradictory nature of trends – from wanting to capture attention, yet not eager to seem too out-there.

“In the evolving tapestry of menswear, the buzz of large logomania and the blaze of neons are gracefully receding, making room for a quieter elegance. Today’s fashion seeks the refined subtlety of minimalist branding and the soft allure of muted palettes – testament to the modern man’s desire for timeless sophistication,” he says.

Read more: A jean-ius touch? How denim material is taking over fashion again

What do Malaysian men want?

Of course, local needs differ among countries. In Malaysia, climate is a deciding factor.

Autumn/Winter clothing, designed to offer warmth in the colder months, are not exactly relevant here. It is therefore key for Malaysian men to sieve through all the latest offerings and pick items that can suit their lifestyle.

“When dressing for a hot and tropical climate like Malaysia, the key is prioritising comfort without compromising style,” Mughni advises.

“Consider lightweight and breathable linen shirts, trousers and shorts in neutral or earthy tones for a relaxed yet polished look. Espadrilles, canvas sneakers, or open sandals are excellent choices for footwear. They’re stylish and allow your feet to breathe.”

Accessories offer way more freedom for gents in Malaysia to follow trends. Not designed for specific seasons, they are more universal in appeal.

Battiston says men in Malaysia generally opt for darker-coloured frames such as black, gunmetal and grey that exude a cooler and traditionally masculine vibe.

He reveals that classic options from Ray-Ban, Oakley and Armani Exchange are the most popular.

“However, they are also starting to explore trendier shapes to make a fashion statement or to complement their sporty lifestyle,” Battiston shares. “Frames with interesting temple details for optical glasses are also on the uptrend.”