Beauty trends are aplenty. However, one that has persisted over the past few years is science-backed skincare.
On social media platforms, you can see various users advocating for specific active ingredients to be used as part of the everyday beauty routine. These range from vitamin C to retinol (a form of vitamin A), niacinamide (vitamin B3) and more.
It seems that more brands are also changing their marketing strategies.
Phrases like “glowing complexion” or “strengthening skin’s barrier” were once used indiscriminately on packagings. They now have been largely replaced by the active ingredients themselves – with the names placed front and centre as a selling point.
More often than not, the concentration of active ingredients is stated explicitly as part of the product name too.
Ten or twenty years ago, a person would probably find it hard to explain what is it in a face cream that makes it work. Consumers are now more informed.
The offerings of science-backed skincare have expanded too.
Just search for “vitamin C serum” on Google and you will get results showing different ones from various brands.
You can also easily find advice on how to properly use retinol beauty products or how they compare to niacinamide formulations. Just look on TikTok. There are plenty of videos being made on the subject of science-backed skincare – by professionals like dermatologists, no less.
She explains that products within the category champion the use of ingredients and formulations that have been researched, tested and proven effective through scientific studies and clinical trials.
Take retinol, for example. The vitamin A derivative increases skin cell production. In this way, it unclogs pores, exfoliates and increases collagen production, which can reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Vitamin C used as skincare ingredient is an antioxidant that can help heal blemishes. Niacinamide reduces acne and hyperpigmentation.
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The demand for science-backed skincare
According to Bacon, consumers have become more knowledgeable and discerning.
She says this has lead to them actively seeking evidence-based formulations, and they have begun to favour brands that apply the right research to the development of skincare products.
It has to be pointed out however, that Murad is a science-backed skincare brand. It was founded by dermatologist Dr Howard Murad in 1989.
“Clinical, but cool. Doctor, but hardly dull. Science, but not stuffy,” reads a tagline in the brand’s profile.
Within this context, Bacon says the science-backed skincare market is getting crowded. This happens as more brands begin to pivot and focus on marketing their products with the active ingredients as the highlight.
She admits as well that brands face challenges with the increased scrutiny and competition, requiring them to maintain transparency and authenticity.
“The skincare industry is undergoing a rapid transformation due to the rise of social media users sharing scientific skincare information,” Bacon notes.
On the subject of marketing strategies, she says catchy buzzwords and exaggerated claims no longer work – which is a good thing.
“Skincare brands must back up their claims with scientific evidence and prioritise ingredient efficacy in their formulations which has led to some incredible ingredient technologies being developed.”
The drawback of social media being a catalyst for the science-backed skincare trend? Misinformation.
Bacon, who was recently in Kuala Lumpur for the launch of a new serum, cites the example of retinol.
“It is widely recognised as an effective ingredient for skincare, which is why it’s considered the gold-standard by dermatologists,” she points out.
“However, there is so much confusion and incorrect information around its use, including exaggerated claims about its effectiveness, indications for use or failure to highlight potential side effects.”
And as with science, things change quickly. Instead of using retinol, Murad’s latest product, the Retinal Resculpt Overnight Treatment, uses retinal, a vitamin A derivative that is claimed to be 2.5x more effective and less irritating.
While brands are harnessing social media to get out the right information, other parties can and should play their part too.
“Dermatologists and experts have become influential figures, empowering consumers to make informed decisions,” Bacon says.
Battling misinformation
Dr Lim Ing Kien is one such dermatologist who uses social media to advise on the science of skincare. His Instagram account has close to 130,000 followers.
“I personally advocate for science-backed skincare because gone are the days whereby consumers only believe in marketing tag lines,” he says.
He agrees that people are now interested about the active ingredients used in skincare.
“This has led to a major shift in marketing strategies by skincare companies. These days, they include scientific studies and research to back their claims,” Dr Lim notes.
“Companies have also involved more and more skincare experts and dermatologists to help formulate their skincare products.”
For him though, social media is a double-edged sword. He says information can be shared faster, but misinformation spreads quicker too.
He gives one example about how there is a myth about not mixing skincare products containing retinol and vitamin C.
“For decades this myth has been perpetuated by magazine articles and blogs,” Dr Lim explains.
To note, the general idea is that different active ingredients should not be mixed as they can interact with one another.
“However, with modern techniques, one can safely mix retinol with vitamin C. There are many skincare products that readily have these two ingredients pre-mixed,” he stresses.
He additionally says that there is definitely a need for more experts to consistently share their views online, which can generate a healthy discussion and drown out misinformation.
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Science is beautiful
Ashlee Ng, general manager for L’Oreal Dermatological Beauty in Malaysia and Singapore, is of the opinion that science-backed skincare is not just a trend.
To her, it is the future – and provides an answer to changing consumer needs.
The innovations are vast and cutting-edge.
L’Oreal is currently focusing on microbiome sciences. The company is developing skincare products aimed at preserving or rebalancing the skin’s microbial ecosystem.
“Controlling the composition of the microbiome ecosystem present on the surface of our skin could prevent most of the skin disorders known as sensitive skin or eczema,” Ng notes.
“On the ageing side, a study carried out in Japan by our research and innovation teams showed that the evolution of the skin microbiome was directly linked to the appearance of certain signs of ageing.”
On the subject of dermatologists becoming stars on social media, Ng believes they can play a role as advisors.
She says they can help consumers to make well-informed choices especially when dealing with issues such as sensitive skin, acne and allergies.
Ng goes on to say that the application of science in the beauty industry far extends beyond just science-backed skincare.
“L’Oreal leverages cutting-edge technologies such as artificial intelligence (AI), augmented reality (AR), and virtual reality (VR) to revolutionise the beauty industry.”
La Roche-Posay (which is dubbed as the “skincare prescribed by dermatologists”, and carried by L’Oreal Groupe) has developed an innovative tool, named Effaclar Spotscan. This is an AI-backed diagnostic tool that is developed with leading dermatologists to amplify access to dermatology.
“Validated by a clinical study, it provides the most accurate imagery and analysis to recommend a personalised La Roche–Posay routine to acne sufferers,” Ng comments.
“It requires just three selfies to analyse and score imperfections, thanks to a bank of 6,000 photos of all ethnic skin types and based on a GEA (Global Acne Severity scale) scoring, recognised by dermatologists.”
This goes to show that not only beauty and science go together, technology is also another big aspect of skincare.
With the shift in consumer behaviour where they are now more health- and wellness-conscious, beauty brands need to keep up with the times too.
Results matter, and brands need to realise that the people who go the extra mile to take care of their looks are wiser than what everyone would want to believe.
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