Announcing aid for refugees, luxury fashion walks away from business in Russia


By AGENCY
The world's leading luxury brands have announced that they plan to temporarily close stores and pause business operations in Russia. Pictured here is the Hermes Autumn/Winter 2022 collection fashion show in Paris. Photo: AFP

The world's leading luxury brands said on Friday (March 4) that they planned to temporarily close stores and pause business operations in Russia. Birkin bag maker Hermes and Cartier owner Richemont were the first firms to announce such moves, followed by LVMH, Kering and Chanel.

Doing business in Russia has become complex since Russia's invasion of Ukraine, which prompted the US, Britain and the European Union to impose sweeping sanctions.

"Given our increasing concerns about the current situation, the growing uncertainty and the complexity to operate, Chanel decided to temporarily pause its business in Russia," the French luxury fashion house said in a LinkedIn post.

Read more: The fashion industry begins scaling back Russia business after invasion

Luxury giant LVMH, which owns such brands as Christian Dior, Givenchy, Kenzo, Tag Heuer and Bulgari among others, will close its 124 boutiques in Russia from Sunday (March 6) but will continue to pay the salaries for its 3,500 employees in the country, a spokesperson said.

French multinational Kering, whose brands include brands as Gucci, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta and Boucheron among others, has two shops and 180 employees, which the company will continue to support.

While affluent Russians are keen consumers of luxury goods, analysts say the proportion of luxury sales generated from Russian nationals is small compared to the industry's main growth engines, China and the US.

Richemont, which also owns Dunhill, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Montblanc, Piaget, and Van Cleef & Arpels among other brands, has around a dozen directly operated stores, mostly in Moscow.

It said in a statement it had suspended commercial activities in Russia on March 3 after stopping Ukraine operations on Feb 24, the day Russia launched its invasion.

Hermes, which has three stores in Moscow, had planned to open an outlet in St. Petersburg later this year.

Read more: To fashion a positive impact, young people are now sewing their own clothes

Investment bank Jefferies estimates that Russians account for around US$9bill (RM37.6bil) in annual luxury sales, which is around 6% of Chinese spending and 14% of US spending on luxury goods.

Swiss watchmaker Swatch Group, which owns high end watches and jewellery labels including Harry Winston, said it would continue its operations in Russia, but was putting exports on hold "because of the overall difficult situation".

LVMH and Kering have both pledged financial support to help Ukrainian refugees and Richemont said on Friday (March 4) it was initiating a "significant donation" to Medecins Sans Frontieres. – Reuters

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fashion , Russia , Ukraine , luxury fashion

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