Skincare and beauty rituals have been around for thousands of years, with the first archaeological evidence of cosmetics originating in Ancient Egypt, 6000 years ago.
The ancient Egyptians used natural ingredients to cleanse and rejuvenate their skin, and fight wrinkles, according to medium.com.
The beauty industry is an ever-evolving one, and every year we are introduced to new and exciting solutions to restore, renew and protect our skin.
Minimalist skincare
For many, a shift towards “skinimalism” has been the way to go, as more people embrace the natural texture of their skin.
Adopting a more minimalist skincare routine translates to using smarter products that reduce the number of steps in your regimen.
Dr Alina Hasni a skin and aesthetic doctor notes that minimalist skincare is catching on in Malaysia.
“This is especially true for people who are busy and on the go and want more specific ingredients for their skin,” says Dr Alina, who is the CEO and founder of a chain of skin clinics in Selangor and Kuala Lumpur. “Personalised skincare will be the next trend”.
Consultant dermatologist Dr Kartini Farah Abdul Rahim says that while there are countless products in the market, a 10-step routine may not necessarily work better than a two-step routine.
“Too much product often ends up harming our skin. Applying multiple products increases our risk of skin irritation, for example, pigmentation issues, eczema and acne flare-ups.
Finally, the active ingredients in all the products may not be compatible with each other when they are applied together, in the same area.
“I believe many have experienced the side effects of layering too many products on their skin and have decided to keep it simple. Individuals that work from home usually have less time to carry out skin routines and tend to just do the basics which are cleansing and moisturising,” adds Dr Kartini, who works with two hospitals.
The bare minimum, regardless of age, gender or ethnicity, is gentle cleansing, moisturisation and protection from UV light with sunscreen, with exfoliating (chemical or physical) recommended to be carried out once a week.
“The drier your skin, the more layers of products you will need. If the skin is problematic, I suggest tapering down on the layering and focusing more on actives in the skincare,” advises Dr Alina. “Different conditions require different approaches, and this is when you need to consult experienced experts.”
Celebrity-driven beauty
As reported in highsnobiety.com, the beauty industry is valued at US$511bil (RM2.12 trillion), and it is only getting bigger.
In addition to the existing beauty conglomerates, every year more celebrities announce their foray into the market with their very own brands.
From artistes Rihanna and Pharrell to tennis champion Naomi Osaka, every few months a famous person drops a new beauty or skincare brand.
Rihanna’s products under the Fenty umbrella include beauty and skincare, while Osaka’s new label Kinlo is a range of sun care products specifically designed for melanated skin.
Malaysia too, has no shortage of celebrity-owned skincare and beauty brands.
Singer and businesswoman Datuk Seri Siti Nurhaliza was a pioneer in this field, launching her brand, SimplySiti in 2010. The homegrown brand, which includes skincare and cosmetics, is still going strong after a decade in the market.
Handmade Heroes, a homegrown vegan, cruelty-free skincare brand was founded in 2013 by blogger and influencer Bella Kuan, Lin Cai Jin and Lynsey Lim, and last year, businesswoman Chryseis Tan launched Lumi Beauty, a skincare range made with natural and cruelty-free ingredients.
Home facials
For months, people had little or no access to facialists and aestheticians and even though their businesses are currently back in full swing, and beauty done at home is also on the rise.
At home treatments are a sensible choice for those who are on a budget, strapped for time or simply just aren’t ready to be in close proximity with other people.
A simple web search will give you thousands of suggestions on how to create your own masks and scrubs, using ingredients one can find in their kitchens and gardens.
Microbiome-friendly skincare
The skin is an ecosystem composed of diverse habitats of good microorganisms, including bacteria, fungi, viruses and mites, collectively referred to as “skin microbiota”, which helps protect the skin against the invasion of harmful organisms.
“The composition of the organisms varies depending on body area, age, diet, stress level, environment, sun exposure and antibiotic consumption. When there is an imbalance of this composition, which is called ‘dysbiosis’, our immune system is activated and the skin barrier function is compromised,” explains Dr Kartini.
Currently, researchers are looking at the application of prebiotics and probiotics in the prevention and treatment of skin disorders like eczema, acne, skin hypersensitivity and wound healing, but there are already products on the market that tout probiotics and fermented ingredients.
“In the field of cosmetics, probiotics are combined in skincare to selectively increase the activity and growth of the good and beneficial skin microbiota to target specific skin disorders like dandruffs and acne,” she says.
Focusing on your skin’s microbiome is a movement that has gained traction this year, and there is solid evidence to support the use of microbiome skincare as a prevention and treatment option to improve skin conditions.
“However, there are a few questions that scientists are still looking for answers, i.e. how to tailor this to each individual skin microbiota, as one person’s needs may be different from others, and will also change with time and age,” says Dr Kartini.
“Secondly, how to formulate a good skincare product that can withstand a long shelf-life without using preservatives, as these will also kill the probiotics and thirdly, as these probiotics are not our normal flora (i.e. it is artificially planted when applying the skincare), will it cause unnecessary side effects – what is the safest dose and frequency of application,” she adds.
Ingesting probiotics to improve the skin is also becoming a popular trend.
“Probiotics are in now because we have started to understand that like the gut, our skin hosts bacteria too,” says Dr Alina. “Probiotics introduce new microorganisms that benefit the skin.
“Medically, more medical personnel are recommending the consumption of probiotics supplements to help with managing certain skin conditions such as atopic dermatitis (eczema).”
Biotech beauty
Doing things sustainably is gradually becoming part and parcel of every business’s operations, and in the beauty industry, this could make or break a brand.
With “woke” consumers demanding better practices from the industry and calling on companies to do more to make sure the earth is impacted less; many brands have tapped into the biotech industry to create safer ingredients.
Technically, biotech beauty refers to ingredients that are generated through DNA editing as well as organisms like yeast, bacteria or algae, but the term is also used to describe lab-made ingredients that either combine natural ingredients with synthetic chemicals, or create synthetic, sustainable alternatives to natural ingredients.
“It is supposed to have better quality control and is less expensive to manufacture,” says Dr Kartini. “However, much like products that are labelled ‘organic’, companies should have good labeling standards, and proof of their safety and efficacy before being marketed.
“There are not many local companies in Malaysia that are currently using biotech ingredients, but it is definitely the way of the future to save our planet,” she adds.
Apart from the sustainability factor, biotech ingredients like hyaluronic acid have proven efficacious in improving skin conditions.
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