Traditional runway shows are returning – or at least, the fashion industry is cautiously trying to bring them back. The recent Spring/Summer 2022 menswear fashion weeks proved as much.
Two fashion capitals were seen welcoming a number of in-person events. This is a change from last year, when presentations in London, New York, Milan and Paris made the move to online platforms in view of the pandemic.
Although, you could say that the mood is still a little sombre. There is an air of nervousness among fashion insiders. Almost like no one wanted to be too excited, in case it turns out to be a premature celebration.
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Covid-19 cases are still high in certain places around the world. And with the emergence of virus variants, there is the worry of resurgence – even in countries where a large percentage of the population has been vaccinated.
While Milan and Paris included physical events this time around, London went with a digital-only, gender-neutral schedule. New York postponed the men’s presentations altogether, combining them with the women’s for a co-ed September fashion week.
For the cities that did adhere to the traditional Spring/Summer men’s schedule, the act of opening up the shows to guests was a small step back to normalcy. The designers themselves seemed almost relieved. They were happy to return to physical shows once again.
In interviews with the media or at press conferences, they spoke of doing things differently design-wise. Yet their shows were as traditional they come: throngs of people, bright lights and buzzing with more models than you can count.
Enjoying the moment
“Personally, I have learned to enjoy things more and to work day by day, not planning too much ahead nor stressing too much, ” Giorgio Armani told Vogue, before his show – the first with an audience since February 2020.
His label’s Spring/Summer 2022 menswear collection (pictured on the cover) is described as going back to “where it started”. It moves away from formality and instead, pays tribute to casual elegance.
“The overall attitude is very light, because I think we have all learned to be informal and more relaxed in the way we dress, ” the designer explained, adding that he is offering new generations an updated dress code to live by.
There were several other shows in Milan that also had a physical guest list. Etro gathered crowds in a poppy-overgrown train yard. The message was “nomadism”, where it explored a metaphorical journey between fashion and reality.
At the press conference, Kean Etro spoke of “unidentified flying dreams”. Rattan mats rolled into studded bags or totes, as well as leather-clad canteens, provided just the right accessories for the travel theme.
Dolce & Gabbana also put on a show for an audience. Like Giorgio Armani, it was the first in nearly a year – and it took on a slightly more festive air. The room was decorated with lights normally found during night-time festivals in Italy’s Puglia region.
Encrusted with crystals, the clothes glittered. Designs also drew from nostalgia. One of the T-shirts read “2000s Fashion Moment”. This in addition to 1990s hip-hop silhouettes, which layered mesh tops over white tank tops.
A number of firsts
Over in Paris, Hermes showcased a pared-down collection of contrasting designs. Textiles were mixed and matched. Gabardine paired with canvas, for example. A lot of the pieces were reversible too.
The collection was shown in the house’s first return to the Auguste Perret-designed stone courtyard of the Mobilier National. The last time Hermes showed there was June 22, 2019, its last normal-times spring show.
“Staged by (French director) Cyril Teste, the collection exudes an air of relaxed light-heartedness and freedom. It is a response to the call of wide open spaces, a yearning for the oceans, ” read the label’s statement.
For Dior, it was the first physical men’s runway show in 18 months. Travis Scott co-designed the collection – the first time the fashion house has ever invited a musician to design a full collection.
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While creative director Kim Jones is no stranger to design collaborations, he has never shared the role when it comes to the creation of an important release like Spring/Summer. Indeed, it was an exciting moment to mark Dior’s return to the runway.
Clothes for the season range from iterations of tracksuit bottoms to oversized tops. As it has been for the past few seasons, streetwear is very much the uniform for the fashion house’s men.
The other four labels which organised a physical show are LGN Louis-Gabriel Nouchi, Officine Generale, Casablanca and Bluemarble. The rest of the participants of Paris Fashion Week Men’s opted for digital presentations.
While it may not be the grand comeback that a lot of people are hoping for, this marks a careful start to normalcy. Three in Milan and six in Paris returning to a traditional runway format is still better than nothing, after all.
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