A rapt and raucous audience, a group of chess fanatics watch a cut-throat game play out on a park bench. Rook takes knight, a flurry of moves, then the game is over in an instant.
The loser surrenders a note of Ukrainian currency and the pieces are reset for another game on the battered board. In the western city of Lviv, Ukraine's capital of chess, local players make a point of keeping up the local tradition of street games, despite the March chill and the war raging to the east.
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