Perched anomalously amid a string of fashion brands in the swanky Pavilion Kuala Lumpur mall is Canton Court.
The three-storey restaurant exudes grandeur and Oriental elegance and this gilded charm carries through every inch of the space.
Each floor has been designed with something different in mind – the ground floor is home to an exclusive VIP room that easily fits 28 people while the second floor has a contemporary, cavernous dining space.
The third floor, meanwhile, features 12 beautifully appointed private rooms.
Opened late last year by the Trillion Benchmark Group, which also owns renowned Chinese eateries like Grand Harbour and Dai Cha Dim – the restaurant is an ode to traditional Cantonese cuisine enhanced with modern embellishments and unique updates.
The kitchen is helmed by seasoned executive chef Chew Yow Chuen, an Ipoh native who has been working in Chinese kitchens since he was 13 years old.
“I started working part-time in restaurants when I was 13 because I didn’t want to go to school. By the time I was 16, I had dropped out of school and focused on honing my skills in Chinese cuisine,” says the friendly Chew.
Since then, he has accumulated well over three decades of experience, which he is putting to good use at Canton Court.
There is plenty to whet the appetite at the restaurant, including a range of dim sum for those looking for some lighter fare.
To start, go for the Deep-Fried Prawn Roll Cheong Fun (RM19.80), a new dim sum item that will soon be added to the menu.
Unlike regular steamed rice rolls, this version of cheong fun is fried and stuffed with large, plump prawns before a layer of steamed rice roll is wound around and latticed with spinach leaves.
It’s an unusual variation of a familiar staple but one that serves it in good stead as the flavours that come through unite deliciously crispy fried goodness with a soft, supple steamed layer, all bound together by the voluptuous prawns in what proves to be a hugely rewarding gustatory experience.
Up next, savour the Deep-Fried Beancurd Skin in Chicken Stock (RM13.80) which is exactly what its name implies.
The beancurd skin is crispy to the touch and stuffed with pork and the dish is given a liquid boost, courtesy of the flavourful chicken stock that lines the base of the plate. It’s a simple dish but one that packs quite a punch.
If you’re after more filling fare, the restaurant has a wide range of a la carte options for every palate. These are also typically the dishes where Chew flexes his creative muscles.
First, try the Poached Coral Trout Slices in Low Temperature Olive Oil (market price). The restaurant slaughters and slices the fish only upon order so it is likely still alive when you place your order.
The preparation of the dish is relatively simple but relies heavily on the freshness of this sea creature. Chew first cleaves the fish into fillets, which are then thinly sliced and left to marinate in salted water.
After this, the fish is poached in olive oil over low temperature in a contraption that is cooked table-side. The fish slices are then finished off with artisanal fish sauce, coriander leaves and ginger strips.
The highlight of this dish is the freshness of the fish, which is apparent from the very first bite.
This is amplified by the texture of this aquatic treasure, which retains a lively, bouncy suppleness that is telling of Chew’s single-minded goal of attaining the perfect bite.
Then there is the Roasted Baby Chicken Drumsticks with Flax Seeds (price unavailable at press time).
This off-the-menu star features spring chicken that has been roasted to perfection and studded with flax seeds.
The highlight of the dish is the chicken, which boasts burnished golden brown skin that crackles at the slightest inclination and yields to juicy flesh that is packed with flavour.
The flax seeds might seem like overkill but they actually serve a purpose, adding firm bite and a wholesome appeal to the dish, which also serves to demonstrate Chew’s creative streak to the fullest.
Move on to the pleasures of the Braised Handmade Egg Noodles with Shredded Chicken and Black Truffles in Bamboo Cup (RM38.80).
The chicken used here utilises the meat from the spring chicken and is very, very succulent.
The noodles themselves are slick and slurp-worthy and this overall goodness is given a palatial kick courtesy of the truffles in this configuration, which add an haute cuisine sheen to the dish.
The Deep-Fried Fish Head and Bones with Fried Ginger Slices (price TBC) is another off-the-menu dish that utilises premium fish in unconventional ways.
The fish has been fried till even its bones are crispy and this crunchy appeal is given additional allure courtesy of the fried ginger slices in the mixture.
The ginger adds potency and contrast to the meal and is so good, you’ll want to buy tubs of it to eat at home as a snack.
End your meal with the wonders of the Deep-Fried Chinese Pancake with Japanese Sesame (RM24).
The pancake features a crispy shield that segues into warm, gooey lotus paste. The sesame seeds add textural contrast to this sweet treat that will prove to be the ultimate decadent denouement to a meal here.
Moving forward, plans are already afoot to open more Canton Court outlets in the Klang Valley, something Chew is excited about as this means he will be able to exercise his creative muscles and stretch his reach of Cantonese cuisine to new audiences clamouring for his modern take on classic Chinese food.
