Gordon Ramsay Bar & Grill: A triumphant entry in the Malaysian restaurant scene

The eatery's forest green and deep red colour scheme is redolent of old-fashioned British elegance. — Gordon Ramsay Bar & Grill

For months, shivers of anticipation precipitated the opening of redoubtable food icon Gordon Ramsay’s much touted Malaysian outpost Gordon Ramsay Bar & Grill at Sunway Resort.

Ramsay is known across the world for his many Michelin-starred restaurants (including Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, which has held three Michelin stars for over two decades) and his star turns on television shows like Hell’s Kitchen and MasterChef, all of which have contributed to his soaring worldwide fame.

So when Gordon Ramsay Bar & Grill finally opened its doors on June 18 in Malaysia, euphoria had reached a fever pitch among local gourmands of every stripe. So much so that the restaurant – which was initially only open for dinner – received well over 22,000 reservations, with Christmas reservations nearing maximum capacity!

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So just what does the much-hyped eatery offer?

To begin with, the visual appeal of the restaurant is apparent from the get-go, from the wide, expansive space (which seats up to 150 people) couched in a rich red and forest green colour scheme, which instantly harks back to the grandeur of old Britain. This is accentuated by walnut hardwood flooring, brass finishes and a 24-carat gold leaf hand-placed ceiling.

The expansive Gordon Ramsay Bar & Grill at Sunway Resort can seat up to 150 people. — Gordon Ramsay Bar & Grill

Scattered across the walls are monochrome portraits of British legends like The Rolling Stones frontman Sir Mick Jagger, legendary actor Sir Sean Connery and supermodel Twiggy, taken by celebrated photographers Terry O’ Neill and Arthur Steel.

A small, discreet wine room secreted in a quiet nook boasts over 1,200 bottles of tipple, ranging in price from RM280 to RM60,000!

Aquatic treasures of the sea form the heart and soul of the Seafood Tower, which is filled with oysters, crab legs, prawns, lobster, salmon and caviar.

And then there is the highlight of the eatery – the food – prepared by a team of 10 in the kitchen, many of whom are talented young Malaysians.

The team were supervised and guided on their culinary journey by Damien Brassel, the director of culinary for international operations at Gordon Ramsay Restaurants. Brassel spent eight weeks training them in person in Malaysia, as Ramsay kept a keen eye on things from a distance (every dish is photographed and sent to him and he regularly FaceTimes the team).

The menu at the eatery mimics (with a 99% precision rate) the offerings at Ramsay’s iconic Savoy Grill at The Savoy in London, United Kingdom with the general exclusion of alcohol, which has been omitted as a cooking agent in all the foods prepared at the eatery.

Produce and ingredients have been sourced from some of the most prestigious and sustainable points from all over the globe, so expect to savour some of the best edibles from across the planet.

To start on a truly unbeatably palatial note, indulge in the Seafood Tower (RM790), which is an aquatic odyssey designed for two to three diners and is unlike any you are likely to have experienced before.

Here, the bounty of the sea forms the bedrock of this meal, which is filled with fresh oysters, Boston lobster, scallop ceviche, king crab legs, salmon and caviar in what has to be one of the most luxurious underwater culinary escapades out there.

The Citrus-Cured Salmon is a gloriously simple meal that is also simultaneously refined and very delicious.

Everything on this platter is so incredibly fresh that there is little in the way of accoutrements or unnecessary adornments. Instead the seafood is allowed to shine in its natural state.

The oysters for instance are plump and oh-so velvety soft with a light brininess, while the lobster is voluptuous and naturally sweet. The prawns are fat and packed with meat as are the king crab legs which are hedonistically fluffy and sumptuous.

The French caviar (which is served with Russian-style blini pancakes) offers bursts of umami that deliver unsurpassed pleasure. This is a meal where each element is a leading star in its own right and all are equally deserving of top billing.

The Citrus-Cured Salmon (RM95) meanwhile features thin slivers of salmon alongside smoked yoghurt, kohlrabi and salmon roe in what is essentially a joyous, elegant meal where simplicity reigns supreme.

The salmon is pillowy soft and tender and is accentuated by the nuanced citrus elements, which add verve and vivacity without altering the original dimensions of the fish too dramatically. This is further elevated by the yoghurt and roe, which imbue the meal with contrast and textural complexity.

If you're after hedonism and decadence, the cheese souffle ticks all the right boxes. — Gordon Ramsay Bar & Grill

Up next, try the Arnold Bennett Twice-Baked Souffle (RM100), which has smoked haddock and is topped with a warm aged cheddar sauce and served alongside a fine herb salad.

Simplicity is the name of the game with the Murray River Cod, which showcases the beauty of the produce to full effect.

This is a souffle that is unabashedly good – soft and airy with the haddock offering rich smoky notes and the cheddar sauce lending a rich, creamy nirvanic quality that will force all conversation in the room to come to a halt as you focus intently on finishing this divine creation.

From the mains, definitely try the Murray River Cod (RM185), with brown butter sabayon, salmon roe and chicken skin crumble. The fish is brined, then soaked in miso, before being cooked in a Josper grill.

As a result, the skin is incredibly crispy with smoky undulations while the flesh is firm yet tenderly yielding and so incredibly tasty. The brown butter sabayon has a nutty richness and adds a nice counterpoint to this carefully-calibrated meal.

Perhaps one of the highlights at Ramsay’s restaurant is his signature, much-anticipated Classic Beef Wellington (RM290). The dish is sliced tableside and features medium rare beef encased in pastry which itself encases a layer of mushroom duxelle (finely chopped mushrooms with aromatics).

This entire concoction is complemented by pomme puree (mashed potatoes) and a zero-proof (essentially alcohol-free) red wine jus alongside a salad.

The Classic Beef Wellington is a traditional British dish that has become synonymous with Ramsay and is worth its hefty price tag.

There are so many instances when tales of a meal’s superiority have been greatly exaggerated and heightened expectations have led to spectacular disappointment. Thankfully, this is one of those instances where expectation and reality align in real life.

The dish is exquisite and boasts pastry that is incredibly flaky and buttery and beef which is perfectly pink, moist throughout and juicy to its core. The red wine jus is also surprisingly good and doesn’t really seem to suffer in any tangible way from the replacement of pure alcohol with a zero-proof liquid; while the mashed potatoes are silken and oh-so addictively good.

It’s the sort of meal where quiet contemplation often follows the first mouthful, followed by silent gratitude to the heavens for the luxury and luck of this celestial dish.

The sublime Manjari Chocolate Tart is everything a dessert should be – sweet and thoroughly, utterly seductive.

Finally – and if your stomach permits – indulge in a sweet treat in the form of the 64% Manjari Chocolate Tart. The 64% Manjari single-origin Madagascar chocolate is one of French premium chocolate producer Valrhona’s most popular chocolate iterations and is often used in some of the world’s best desserts.

Celebrity chef Ramsay is known across the world and now lucky Malaysians will be able to sample some of the food that has contributed to this fame at his brand new eatery.

Its use here does not disappoint and you will discover a silky-smooth bittersweet chocolate layer atop a beautiful crumb base, alongside honeycomb yoghurt sorbet and extra virgin olive oil, which add crunch and contrast to this decadent denouement to the meal.

Overall, it is safe to say that “opulence” and “comfort” are probably the two key takeaways well-heeled Malaysians will experience after a meal at Gordon Ramsay Bar & Grill, which combines luxury with finely-tuned comfort food, forged together to deliver an unforgettable experience.

A full meal here is the sort that lingers in the memory long after the plates have been cleared, mouths have been wiped clean and butts have vacated plush seats. And that, ladies and gentlemen, is the mark of a truly good restaurant.

Prices are subject to change, so do expect some variance.

Gordon Ramsay Bar & Grill is now open for lunch. For reservations, please contact 03-7492 8000 or email [e-mail].