Passing down family restaurants: The Passage Thru India story

Despite having taken over the family business, Gaya still looks to her dad for final approval. —YAP CHEE HONG/The Star

In Kuala Lumpur, Passage Thru India has a long-standing history as one of the bastions of Indian food in the city. The restaurant is also recognised for its artwork and creative flourishes, courtesy of founder Panirselvam Suppiah, 74, an artist or “dreamer” as he describes himself.

Panirselvam opened Passage Thru India back in 1996, having spent a career working first in advertising and then as the marketing head of a menswear brand. He launched the restaurant when he was in his 40s and freely admits that he wanted to use it as his canvas and art space.