Renowned climber among 10 missing after avalanche


Renowned Nepali mountaineer Nirmal Purja (pic) is among 10 people missing after an avalanche in northern Pakistan where they were on a climbing expedition, the country’s alpine club said.

“The Alpine Club of Pakistan (ACP) has received deeply concerning reports of an avalanche that struck a team of climbers on Broad Peak (8,047m) in the Karakoram mountain range,” the club said late on Thursday, adding that the team led by Purja could not be reached since the incident.

The club said the expedition comprises 10 people – including five Nepalese, a Pakistani, an Omani, an American, a climber from China and one other foreigner.

“The entire team has reportedly been out of communication since the avalanche,” the club said.

Purja, 43, who served with Britain’s Brigade of Gurkhas before joining the Special Boat Squadron of the Royal Marines, has broken multiple climbing records since becoming a full-time mountaineer and tour guide.

He climbed all 14 “eight-thousanders” (peaks above 8,000m) in six months and six days between April and October 2019 – then a record.

In 2021, Purja completed the first winter ascent of K2 along with a team of nine other Nepalese climbers.

Purja wrote on X this week that he was close to becoming the first person to climb all 14 “super peaks” twice without oxygen.

“Broad Peak, I ask for nothing but safe passage up and back down,” he wrote.

“I take zero mountains for granted. Not one. The moment my foot leaves basecamp, it’s 100%. Always has been. Always will be.

“My purpose has never been about me. It’s about what I represent. It’s about showing YOU that your own mountains – whatever they are – are climbable.”

Broad Peak is the world’s 12th highest mountain and is regarded as one of the toughest and most technical climbs of all the 8,000m-plus ascents.

The ACP said two Pakistan Army helicopters, carrying rescue personnel and additional specialised equipment, are supporting the search operation. — AFP

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