Shafie Ahmad showcasing the Baju Melayu Telok Blangah for men (left) and the Baju Kurung Telok Blangah for women from his personal collection. – ZAZALI MUSA/The Star
THE baju Melayu Teluk Belanga is growing in popularity among Malay men beyond Johor, attracting interest from those in other Malaysian states, Singapore and even parts of Indonesia, particularly the Riau Archipelago.
An expert in Johor traditional Malay attire, Shafie Ahmad attributed its popularity to Johor Ruler Sultan Ibrahim Ibni Almarhum Sultan Iskandar and his son, Johor Crown Prince Tunku Ismail Ibni Sultan Ibrahim.
Sultan Ibrahim, who also serves as the King of Malaysia, began his reign on Jan 31, 2024, while Tunku Ismail serves as the Regent of Johor.
“Baju Melayu Teluk Belanga remains popular among Johor Malays, including the younger generation. Now, its popularity is rapidly growing among Malay men beyond Johor,” Shafie said in an interview.
As a Johor native, Shafie expressed his delight in seeing Malay men from other states wearing the baju Melayu Teluk Belanga, an attire that embodies the true identity of Johor Malays.
Shafie, 64, who served as a cultural officer at the Johor Heritage Foundation (YWJ) for 17 years, is highly sought after in the state for his expertise.
Although he retired in 2019, Shafie remains active as a spokesperson for cultural events at YWJ, particularly those related to Malay traditional attire and zapin dances.
“True-blue Johor Malays wear the baju Melayu Teluk Belanga for Friday prayers and Hari Raya, unlike Malays from other states who prefer the baju Melayu Cekak Musang,” he said.
Local historians note that the style was originally designed by the late Sultan Abu Bakar, the great-great-grandfather of Sultan Ibrahim.
This was to commemorate the relocation of the administrative capital of the Johor empire in 1866 from Teluk Belanga in Singapore to Tanjung Puteri, now known as Johor Baru.
“The style sets us apart from other states and despite evolving over time, it has remained popular among Johor Malays for 159 years,” he said.
The Teluk Belanga style features a round neck with a slit in the middle, fastened by a detachable single button known as sebuku garam, typically crafted from a semi-precious or precious stone.
“The most challenging part of making baju Melayu Teluk Belanga is cutting the round neckline, referred to as bulan (moon), and sewing the tulang belut (a specialised stitching technique) for the neckline,” said Shafie.
