The ancient city of Bhaktapur: Living history in Nepal

Journey back in time in this ancient city, nestled below the Himalayas, where daily life is steeped in a rich culture.

You would be forgiven for thinking you have walked into an open museum when you arrive in Bhaktapur – as soon as you step through the gates of the ancient city, your senses will be struck by its fascinating medieval art and architecture.

Set against the magnificent peaks of the Himalayas, the ornate temples, gilded palaces and pulsing courtyards of Nepal’s so-called “cultural capital” gives it a mystical aura that will transport you back in time.

As a UNESCO World Heritage site, Bhaktapur is well preserved. At every corner of the ancient city, you can see elaborate Buddhist and Hindu symbols and monuments with intricate carvings that can be traced back to the reign of the Malla Dynasty from the 12th to the 18th centuries. Some Nepalis call it Bhadgaon but others refer to it by its Newari name – Khwopa – which means City of Devotees.

Simple joys: Just join in if you see children playing cricket when you wander around Bhaktapur city. Like in the other parts of the Indian subcontinent, cricket is one of the most popular sports in Nepal.

What makes Bhaktapur most captivating, however, is its people. Their pride in their heritage can be seen in their simple but culturally rich daily life.

Artisans carve wood and make puppets along the streets as children challenge one another to a match of cricket.

Women in traditional garb gather at the neighbourhood well to fetch water or just gossip while, nearby, men in colourful woven topi (hats) play cards and checkers. Peep through the open doors and windows of the antiquated redbrick homes and you can catch a glimpse of women, young and old, weaving cloth on traditional handlooms.

Located about 12km outside of Kathmandu, Bhaktapur – which was once a stopover for traders travelling between Tibet and India – is easily accessible. There are many taxis and buses plying the route, while those who want a more flexible mode of travel can rent a car (complete with a driver).

As the cultural capital of Nepal, Bhaktapur gives visitors valuable insight into its craftsmanship tradition at every corner of the city, including wood-carving.

Once you reach the city, however, be prepared to go around on foot; big vehicles are not allowed within its limits. But don’t sweat, there is so much to see that you will not feel the distance. It is definitely the perfect place to ramble around, soaking up the ambience that harks back centuries – the back lanes, especially, hold many hidden treasures just waiting to be discovered.

The main cobblestone streets connect Bhaktapur’s famous squares in a winding maze, at the heart of which lies Durbar Square which was partially destroyed by an earthquake in 1934. The destruction, however, opened up the square’s vista, setting up the perfect canvas for its religious heritage, from the Big Bell built by the last Malla King of Bhaktapur to the Yaksheswor Mahadev temple with its erotic carvings.

At the north side of the square is the famous Palace of 55 Windows, which houses the national art gallery and its extensive collection of thangkas and other Nepalese artefacts. But the palace itself is a work of art – with the detailed carvings on the sills and beams. Just outside is the Sun Dhoka or Golden Gate, which is carved with countless divinities to “guard” the royal palace.

Men in traditional hats relaxing over a game by the roadside.

Follow the twisting streets to Taumadhi Square where you will find the Nyatapola temple with its five-storied pagoda, said to be the tallest pagoda in Nepal.

The square also houses one of the two pottery squares in Bhaktapur where you can get a close-up look at the pottery whose craftsmanship has been passed down from generation to generation. See for yourself how the skilled potters mould and smoothen the wet natural clay into yoghurt bowls and water jugs before burning them in the fiery kilns. Or better still, try shaping the natural clay yourself!

If pottery is not your thing, Bhaktapur offers many other handiworks and traditional crafts, including woven bags, toys, masks and traditional clothes.

Visitors pay an entry fee of about RM50 (US$15) to enter Bhaktapur – it goes into the protection and maintenance of the temples – but it is worth every sen to partake in this rich tapestry of Nepali life.

You can discover many traditional practices of the people of Bhaktapur – like drawing water from wells – when you explore the narrow cobblestone streets and alleys. Old wells are still the main water source of the city.

Click here for more pictures of Bhaktapur.

Sources: Bhaktapur Tourism and Lonely Planet.