In Cambodia's 'Waiting Village', tattooist mourns trade lost to war


Tattoo artist Cheng Bora speaks with a customer at his house in Rong Cham, a resettlement site villagers have nicknamed "the waiting village", home to families who fled fighting along the Cambodia-Thailand border and are waiting for a chance to return, in Banteay Meanchey province, Cambodia, September 15, 2026. REUTERS/Soveit Yarn

RONG CHAM, Cambodia, Sept 23 (Reuters) - ⁠More than 3,000 houses stand in neat rows across Rong Cham, a 400-hectare (990-acre) resettlement site dubbed by residents "the ⁠Waiting Village", where families who fled fighting along the Cambodia-Thailand border still wait to return home nine ‌months after the ceasefire.

Among them is Cheng Bora, a tattoo artist known to everyone as Sam, who once ran a thriving shop at Boeung Trakuon, a bustling trade crossing point on the border with Thailand in Cambodia's Banteay Meanchey province.

Now he works from a small house in Rong Cham, dipping ​his needle into a can of black ink and leaning over a customer ⁠to work on his tattoo — one of just ⁠a few compared to the number of people he used to get at his home now in the territory controlled ⁠by ‌the Thai army since the border conflict last year.

At the Thai border 20 kilometres from the Waiting Village, Sam and his family stopped before a metal barricade marking the edge of accessible territory, trying to catch a glimpse ⁠of his old home.

"This place used to be very busy, many people ​doing business around here and it was ‌very easy to make money before the fighting started," Sam said, gazing toward the fortified line.

Sam said ⁠that to make ends ​meet he has had to pick up a few other jobs such as plumber, electrician, and some minor construction work for other villagers.

Rong Cham was built to house families who fled fighting between Cambodian and Thai troops that erupted in July 2025 over a long-contested stretch ⁠of their shared border of over 800 kilometres, and flared again in ​December before a ceasefire took hold. The clashes marked one of the most serious escalations between the two neighbours in years.

Cambodian authorities say the figure of those still unable to go home stands above 20,000, according to Tom Andrews, UN Special Rapporteur on ⁠human rights in Cambodia, who said Thai military positions now sit inside what Phnom Penh considers its own territory.

Thailand has denied that it is illegally occupying Cambodian territory, claiming that it is following a bilateral ceasefire agreement. Border crossings between the neighbours remain closed.

When asked for comment on the displaced villagers, Thailand's Ministry of Foreign Affairs referred to an August 1 statement ​in which it said it was up to the Cambodian government to handle care ⁠of any of its citizens affected by the fighting.

Sam said his household has been split by the crisis. His nine-year-old daughter has ​returned to live with him, while his adult son remains in Thailand ‌with other family.

"It's about when I can get back to my ​old house and whether there would be a third (bout of) fighting," he said. "These are the two issues I worry about the most."

(Reporting by Chantha Lach; Writing by Juarawee Kittisilpa; Editing by Josh Smith and Toby Chopra)

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