GUIYANG, China, Sept. 11 (Xinhua) -- China's Deng Lijuan ended a nearly yearlong wait for a major international medal on Friday, winning the women's speed climbing title at the World Climbing Series here in a personal-best 6.14 seconds.
The 26-year-old Olympic silver medalist lowered the personal best she set in the Paris Olympic final by 0.04 seconds, while Indonesia's Antasyafi Robby Al Hilmi claimed the men's title in 4.65 seconds for his first World Climbing Series gold.
Deng clocked 6.38, 6.22, 6.18 and 6.14 seconds through the four elimination rounds. Her 6.18 in the semifinal equaled the previous personal best she had set in the Paris Olympic final.
After clinching the title, Deng, who is known for keeping her emotions in check on the climbing wall, broke down in tears for less than three minutes.
"I got so emotional this time because my PB, which had been untouched for two years, was finally broken, and I found myself again," Deng said.
Deng said she regained her form in the second year after the Paris Olympics and won silver at that year's world championships, her most recent podium finish at a major international event before Friday's victory. However, injuries and difficulties adapting to changes in her climbing technique subsequently kept her off the podium at major events.
"There was a time when I resisted training. I couldn't understand why, after getting my form back, it suddenly dropped again," Deng said.
She credited encouragement from her coach and her goal of winning Olympic gold at the 2028 Los Angeles Games with helping her regain her motivation.
"My head coach Zhang Ning said one thing most often: 'You are Deng Lijuan! You can't give up easily!'" she said.
Deng will next compete at the upcoming Asian Games in Nagoya, where she is expected to face strong competition from Indonesian world record holder Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi and other leading Asian climbers.
Asked how she would approach the challenge, Deng replied: "Face it head-on."
Women's speed world record holder Emma Hunt of the United States, one of the pre-race favorites, was eliminated in the round of 16. China's Zhao Yicheng, the men's world record holder, also exited early, while former men's world record holder Samuel Watson of the United States was eliminated in the round of 16.
Hilmi seized his opportunity to claim the men's title in 4.65 seconds, becoming the fourth climber to break 4.70 seconds at a World Climbing Series event this season, joining Zhao, Watson and China's Long Jianguo, the 2025 world champion.
"I'm grateful to get the gold medal. I've been training a lot for this competition," Hilmi said.
The Indonesian said he had been climbing for 12 years and credited the support of his family and team for helping him secure his first World Climbing Series title. He also sent a message to his mother in Indonesian while speaking to the cameras after the race.
