History lessons one step at a time


IPOH: Driven by a passion for teaching, S. Sundralingam has taken his lessons from the classroom to the pavement.

The former educator, who spent three decades in schools, now works as a full-time heritage guide leading walking tours through this historic former mining town.

For him, the walking tours bring history lessons to life along the streets of Ipoh.

Heritage walk: Sundralingam regaling visitors on his guided tour in Ipoh. — Photo courtesy of S. Sundralingam
Heritage walk: Sundralingam regaling visitors on his guided tour in Ipoh. — Photo courtesy of S. Sundralingam

Sundralingam enjoys sharing little-known local lore, such as the underground tunnel believed to connect the Ipoh Railway Station – nicknamed the “Taj Mahal of Ipoh” – to the High Court and the Ipoh Town Hall, which formerly served as a police station and lock-up.

Designed by British architect Arthur Benison Hubback and opened in the early 20th century, the station’s subterranean link was built during the colonial era to move prisoners securely between the courthouse and nearby administrative buildings.

Visitors frequently ask about the station’s construction materials and the origin of its famous moniker.

According to Sundralingam, Hubback stopped in India in 1895 en route to Malaya, where he was inspired by Mughal architecture and its prominent domes.

Local residents noted the architectural similarities upon its completion and bestowed the nickname.

Another common query centres on where to find the best local cuisine.

Sundralingam routinely directs guests to Ipoh Old Town, pointing out eateries around Kong Heng Square and nearby Concubine Lane that serve iconic local dishes such as popiah, shredded chicken noodles and chee cheong fun.

Beyond culinary attractions, however, his favourite narrative involves Ipoh’s transformation during the Kinta Valley tin-mining boom, an era that drew diverse communities and turned a quiet valley into a thriving commercial hub.

Sundralingam, 69, notes that Ipoh’s blend of heritage, food and natural topography sets it apart from other Malaysian cities, with the Kinta River Valley and surrounding limestone karst hills providing a distinctive backdrop.

Foreign tourists are especially eager to explore local history, with tour groups – ranging from solitary travellers to groups of 30 – attracting global visitors.

Notable past participants include an Australian TV presenter, US Air Force pilots, embassy officials, and a British High Court judge alongside his family.

“The old colonial buildings and pre-war structures usually surprise visitors,” he said.

Highlighting an overlooked landmark with a rich history, he points to a pre-war shophouse at 7 Hale Street (now Jalan Tun Sambanthan).

The building once housed the law firm of DR Seenivasagam, an illustrious lawyer and politician celebrated for his legal battles.

“It was in this pre-war building that the Seenivasagam brothers founded the People’s Progressive Party (PPP) in 1953.”

Sundralingam first developed the heritage walks in 2010 while serving as secretary of the Perak Heritage Society.

He began conducting tours while still working as a teacher – shaping minds in History, English and Physical Education until his retirement in 2017 – and now documents his excursions on his Facebook page, “Ipoh Heritage Walk Sundra”.

However, he sees threats to Ipoh’s heritage from land clearing, industrial activity and the gradual loss of limestone hills.

Additionally, numerous pre-war shophouses and colonial structures remain dilapidated due to prohibitive restoration costs, complex inheritance disputes and inadequate heritage conservation laws.

“The heritage pathway infrastructure has yet to be upgraded,” he added.

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