Ummu showing her range of skincare and beauty products made with natural ingredients from Sarawak. — ZULAZHAR SHEBLEE/The Star
IT was almost by accident that local entrepreneur Ummu Aqilah Makshut began making skincare and beauty products using Sarawak’s natural ingredients.
In 2019, while doing her master’s in chemistry, she was assigned to conduct research and development (R&D) to produce balm from lemongrass.
“In the middle of R&D we got hit by Covid-19. I couldn’t go to the lab, so I brought the ingredients home as we had just started with the formulation phase,” Ummu, 27, said.
“When I finished the R&D, I had some leftover ingredients. I couldn’t go anywhere due to Covid and I was busy writing my thesis but had nothing else to do.
“So instead of letting the ingredients go to waste, I decided to make my own minyak angin (balm).”
Because she did not like the smell of lemongrass, Ummu used the same formula to make a plain prototype, which she shared with her family and friends.
She also began studying the ingredients that went into the product to learn about their effects, and discovered that methyl and camphor were not suitable for use on the face and for the respiratory area.
“As a person with asthma, sinus and migraine, I constantly need minyak angin, so I thought I would formulate something that does not contain methyl, camphor or petroleum traces.
“I came up with another batch using just menthol, which has a cooling effect.
“My father suggested incorporating some ginger, then my mother suggested adding some chilli for the colour.
“From there I stuck with the formulation after several trials and that’s how I came up with my mild ginger balm,” she said.
The ginger balm was Ummu’s first product which she sold under her start-up When Artisan Meets Beauty.
Next, she decided to make soaps and realised that using local natural ingredients would give her products a unique Sarawak identity.
At that time, her father happened to buy some engkabang oil to eat with rice. Also known as “tree butter”, it comes from the fruit of the engkabang tree found in Borneo.
“This inspired me to do some research on engkabang. I came across a good source from Universiti Malaysia Sabah comparing the moisturising effects of engkabang butter and cocoa butter, which found that engkabang butter is 5% more moisturising.
“To me, that was good enough to incorporate into beauty products, so I made my first engkabang butter soap,” Ummu said.
The launch of the soap prompted her to change her brand to Ngegeh, a commonly-used local word to convey a sassy Sarawakian identity.
After that she began incorporating other local ingredients, particularly black huma rice (hill paddy) and Iban ginger, into her products.
While engkabang butter has a moisturising effect, the black huma rice and Iban ginger have anti-aging properties.
Ummu also produced a limited edition Bario salt soap for this year’s Rainforest World Music Festival, where she had a stall.
“Salt soap is mainly for people with a skin disease like eczema. It’s medicinal soap that’s not meant for daily use but maybe two or three times a week,” she said.
Ummu buys Iban ginger and black huma rice from hawkers at the market in Lundu while the engkabang butter comes from Kapit and Mukah.
“I don’t go directly to the farmers or suppliers but buy them from retailers or local sellers because I want to help others along the supply chain,” she said.
Ummu currently sells her products online and at pop-up stalls, but she hopes to open her own premises one day as a one-stop centre for making and selling fresh cosmetics.
“The idea is that we make the cosmetics fresh every day. People can come and try the products, if they like it they can buy it and if not it’s still an experience for them.
“I’m also thinking of having an eco-sustainable section where people can bring their own bottles to buy detergent, shampoo and soap from us, which we will charge by weight,” she explained.
She added that she was in the process of raising capital and finding a suitable location.
“It needs to be spacious so that I can conduct workshops. Maybe it will be ready by next year, I’m very hopeful.”
