Today marks the 80th anniversary of D-Day

Cyclists are offered discounts in some sites and attractions in Normandy. — DAVID BOWDEN

Today (June 6), France will reflect on the 80th anniversary of the Battle Of Normandy, better known as D-Day. While the marine invasion by multinational Allied forces didn’t bring an end to World War II, it did signal the beginning of the end.

In December 1943, Major General Dwight D. Eisenhower of the United States was appointed to lead the Allied forces, which were then considering several landing sites in France, including Normandy, Brittany, the Cotentin Peninsula and Calais.

Planning for the operation had begun in the middle of 1943, and in the months leading up to the invasion, the Allies conducted various military deceptions, codenamed “Operation Bodyguard”, to mislead the Germans as to the actual date and location of the invasion.

Secrecy was paramount with “Operation Overlord”, the name assigned to the large-scale operation. The first phase, the amphibious invasion, was codenamed “Operation Neptune”, while a comprehensive bombing campaign, known as “Operation Pointblank”, targeted German aircraft and airfield infrastructure.

The weather on the day of the invasion was not ideal, and the operation was delayed by 24 hours. Timing was all important in the planning, as the time of day, the tides and phases of the moon all needed to align.

Meticulous planning was also required as the Germans had established imposing fortifications along what was referred to as the Atlantic Wall in their anticipation of an invasion.

The Battle of Normandy

On June 6, the German coastal fortifications in Normandy were bombarded from the air and the sea before the Allied amphibious landings began. At dawn, Allied armoured divisions and infantry landed along an 80km coastal stretch that had been divided into five sectors: Utah, Gold, Juno, Omaha and Sword.

The Allied forces were mostly British, American and Canadian troops but also included Australian, Belgian, Czechoslova-kian, Dutch, French, Greek, New Zealand, Norwegian, Rhodesian (now Zimbabwe), and Polish forces that provided either air, naval or ground support.

The forces landing along the coast were reinforced by some 24,000 Allied parachutists who were dropped into Normandy in the early morning darkness.

Strong winds blew some of the amphibious vessels away from their intended positions along various beaches, particularly at Utah and Omaha. The soldiers landed under heavy German bombardment, as well as mines in the sand and stakes, barbed wire and other obstacles that made it treacherous for the invading forces.

The American troops came close to defeat with heavy casualties on Omaha Beach because the preliminary air and naval bombardment failed to eliminate the German defences and because the German troops tenaciously defended their positions. However, while superior in the initial phase, the Germans couldn’t capitalise on their early successes.

The invasion wasn’t as successful as hoped, and several nearby towns that were expected to fall remained in German hands, and a major objective of capturing the city of Caen didn’t occur until July 21. All beachheads were not conquered until mid-June.

However, by late August 1944, the Germans were in full retreat from France, despite some resistance in the Ardennes at the end of the year.

There are numerous venues for tourists and visitors to learn more about the D-Day invasion and activities to do in conjunction with the 80th anniversary.

Dead Man’s Corner Museum, close to Carentan-les Marais, near where invading forces landed at Omaha Beach, has an extensive and fascinating collection of war objects, equipment and messages of peace.

The Battle of Caen is remembered at the Memorial de Caen Museum, which is as much a statement on peace as the battles that were fought in and around the city during World War II. It recounts major historical events from the end of World War I to the fall of the Berlin Wall, focusing particularly on the European perspective of these historical events.

The museum was set up in 1988 to focus on the fragility of peace and to tell the terrible story of the 20th century in a spirit of reconciliation.

While it’s important not to ignore the heroism of the past and the sadness of the huge loss of life on D-Day and the subsequent battles that occurred in freeing France, Normandy has moved on, and now it has many exhilarating opportunities for tourists.

Thousands of Allied forces are buried in cemeteries such as this one at Beny-sur-Mer. — MATHILDE LELANDAIS

Normandy in a new light

It is possible to be sitting along the Atlantic Ocean in a small fishing village in Normandy within a few hours of touching down in Paris at Charles de Gaulle Airport.

This coastline is one of France’s most picturesque landscapes, and it’s easy to see how the light and scenery inspired so many artists, composers and musicians while at the same time attracting numerous holidaymakers.

Parts of coastal Normandy are known as the Cote d’Abatre, or Alabaster Coast, due to the chalky cliffs that form the backdrop to sandy beaches that lap the Atlantic Ocean coast.

Painters like Miro, Renoir, Picasso and Monet were attracted to Normandy, with most producing some of their finest works here. Known as Impressionists, these painters revolutionised 19th-century art by being inspired by the natural light in locations such as the dramatic white cliffs of Aval. One such place was the landscaped gardens located just above the small town of Etretat, not far from Le Havre and the mouth of the River Seine.

Abbeys, monasteries, palaces

Normandy offers contemporary travellers many exciting prospects, including numerous places of worship such as the famous Mont Saint-Michel, perched on a rocky outcrop just off the northwestern coastline near the Channel Islands.

Being France’s first Unesco World Heritage Site, Mont Saint-Michel not only has a special role to play in French history, but it also has significant global heritage. This fortified village dating back over 1,200 years is dominated by the abbey on the highest parts, while villagers live in its lower precincts.

Another famous building near the Normandy coastline is the Palais Benedictine in Fecamp. This incredible Gothic and Renaissance-style building is home to the renowned Benedictine liqueur, which is a popular beverage the world over.

While the ornately decorated palace only dates back to the 19th century, the liqueur was first produced in the 16th century when a Benedictine monk named Dom Bernardo Vincelli created a secret herbal elixir that was produced for ages but became lost during the French Revolution.

In 1863, Alexandre Le Grand, a local wine merchant, rediscovered the recipe found in a book within his vast library. The complex herbal-based recipe was reproduced, and the Palais Benedictine was built as a home to what is one of the world’s best-known liqueurs.

Not only is the palace where the liqueur is distilled using its secret herbal ingredients, but it’s also a cellar for ageing the liqueur, a repository of art, a venue for events, and a boutique for sampling and buying the famous beverage.

Visitors can join a guided tour to take in the impressive setting and the impressive art collection and to enjoy sampling the well-known liqueur.

Canadian Veterans in front of THE Canadian House Bernieres-Sur-Mer in June 2029. — MATHILDE LELANDAIS

Marinas, bays, ports

There are many ports, bays and marinas to visit along coastal Normandy, with Honfleur, Fecamp, Cherbourg, Caen, Cabourg and Deauville standing out. Cherbourg has one of the most famous harbours along the coast, and its location at the entrance to the English Channel ensures it’s a major port for ferries heading across the channel.

In addition to its docks and marinas, one of the big attractions here is La Cite de la Mer Cherbourg, a museum located in the former transatlantic liner terminal that dates back to the 1930s, when huge ocean-going cruise boats berthed here on their way from England to the east coast of the US.

There are many attractions in the museum, including a recreation of the Art Deco baggage hall for the ill-fated Titanic, and while the Titanic didn’t berth in Cherbourg, tender vessels transported 274 passengers from the port to the big ship, which moored offshore in the English Channel.

Another highlight of a visit to La Cite de la Mer is exploring Le Redoutable, a French Navy submarine and the largest submarine in the world that’s open to the general public.

Discover major attractions in Normandy like Cherbourg by bike. — DAVID BOWDEN

Fecamp is another picturesque harbour where the marina is popular with tourists who can stroll along the promenade, dine in restaurants, and enjoy local beverages in the town’s atmospheric bars.

In days gone by, Fecamp’s fishing fleet headed out into the Atlantic Ocean in search of cod fish, which were mostly caught in the waters off the Canadian maritime province of Newfoundland. Musee des Terre-Neuvas et de la Peche is a museum that celebrates these brave fisherfolk and how they contributed to the wealth of the region.

Food and retreats

Seafood is another great reason to visit Normandy, where oysters, mussels and scallops thrive in the coastal waters and are served in restaurants all over the region. Many restaurants and cafes specialise in seafood, with some worth seeking out, including l’Equipage (Cherbourg), and Brasserie L’Ostrea (Honfleur).

While Honfleur is popular with tourists, it’s well worth visiting at the weekend for the open-air market that sprawls around the compact harbour and to visit Normandy Outlet, a premium outlet complex. Half-timbered houses so typical of Normandy line the docks, with many repurposed as smart restaurants and bars.

Many coastal parts of Normandy first appealed to domestic tourists and England, but now they travel from all over the world. Grand hotels opened along the Atlantic coast to cater to affluent visitors, and many continue these fine traditions of hospitality. Being close to Paris, France’s well-to-do also built stylish beachside villas along the coast, with many still standing in coastal resorts like Cabourg and Deauville.

Hotel Barriere Le Normandy at Deauville, along what is known as the Cote Fleurie (Flower Coast), is a grand heritage hotel in a smart coastal resort town that features restaurants, spas, boutiques and golf courses. Deauville was where Coco Chanel opened her first fashion boutique.

Normandy is currently busy with the D-Day celebrations, and while it may be best to admire these from afar, the place is one of the essential regions to include in any French travel itinerary.