You can go on a sea kayak tour of the island of Rab in Croatia. — Photos: ANDREAS DROUVE/dpa
Over rocks and roots the path rises up. You are sweating, but the pines do provide some shade. The filtered sunlight creates patches on the ground. Red-and-white trail markers are painted on the tree trunks. Then, suddenly, the view opens up. Through leaves and branches, the forest greenery becomes visible as it falls toward the coastline.
The lush vegetation of the Adriatic Sea is a trademark of the island of Rab. In the distance, the bluish hues of the Adriatic and the sky melt together. In the distance, the neighbouring islands of Cres and Losinj hunch up from the water.
On Rab, the route leads upwards through forests of juniper and stone oak to Kamenjak, the island’s throne at 408m above the sea. Up there, in the barren limestone plateau, the vegetation flattens out, pushed down by the bora, or the fall wind coming from the direction of the Croatian mainland.
Arrivals have built cairns around Kamenjak, although this is not a classic peak, what with an antenna system that breaks with the surroundings. But this does not detract from the panorama. The mainland is in sight, as is the Velebit channel that separates it from the offshore islands. One of these is Goli otok, an erstwhile prison island and eyesore dating back to the period of Yugoslavia, the former confederation of Balkan states.
Putting the island into figures, Rab is relatively small compared with such neighbours as Krk and Cres, measuring 22km long and 11km wide. Still, for those who wish for variety and physically active holiday there are 88km of hiking trails and 348km of bicycling paths.
Mountain bikers will find many trails on the Kalifront peninsula in north-west Rab.
A favourite terrain for mountain bikers is the Kalifront peninsula in the north-west of the island, the starting point being the capital which bears the same name as the island, Rab. From there, the route leads along a promenade running parallel to the deep cut of a bay, where rocky outcrops rise up and gleaming-white yachts dot the blue waters.
Following a climb, the greenery gains the upper hand, as seen in the protected zone of the Dundo Forest which once provided materials for ship construction, carpentry work and firewood. Here is the start of the 22.5km circular tour Capo Fronte, which, despite 363m of elevation to overcome is listed in the simple category. The surface alternates between gravel, pebbles and asphalt. The air is scented by pine and herbs.
Woven into this natural setting is a network of historical buildings which under the Rab Archaeological Traces project have been documented and uncovered. The remains of the Maurus and Paul churches encourage short hikes on foot into the solitude of the forest.
The highlight attraction are the ruins of a chapel in honour of Saint Mara overlooking Mara Bay. Centuries ago, Franciscan monks spent their days in spiritual contemplation. Those who today seek inner peace will sit down next to the chapel walls on ground covered by pine needles. The greenish-blue water is seen shimmering through the trees and shrubs, to a melody of waves lapping against the shore.
Kayaking fun
A sea kayak tour puts Rab in a new light. The waters of the protected zone of Lopar in the north of the island is, on this recent day, too stormy and churned up due to the Bora. So kayak guide Dominik Pahljana quickly changed plans and led a tour on the protected western side of the island.
Stroke by stroke, the kayaks glide through crystal-clear waters, far removed from any construction sites, a few of which are found in Rab’s south. One idyllic bay follows the next. Seagulls are screeching and a cormorant, sitting atop rocks, spreads its wings out to dry. Dominik Pahljana leads the group to a stony beach devoid of any people.
From Mount Kamenjak, hikers have a panoramic view of the mainland and Rab’s neighbouring islands.
“Luckily there is no industry on the island,” he remarks. Not only his guests, but he too enjoys the rest break.
For those so inclined, it’s time to disrobe and swim naked in the Adriatic waters. Nudism is normal on Rab, ever since British King Eduard VIII and his soulmate Wallis Simpson back in the 1930s used to enjoy the natural setting in the buff. Naked or not, one must watch out for jellyfish and sea urchins. The best way to protect against their barbs and the coastline’s stony ground is to wear aqua shoes, which can be bought everywhere.
Exploring a city
The crystal-clear water continues on beaches such as the so-called Paradise Beach near Lopar, and provides a chance to explore the island’s capital Rab. With so much to see, strolling through the town requires stamina. A lot of ground can be covered going from the harbour through a park up to the historical quarter with its network of alleys, ivy- and bougainvillea-covered facades and a quartet of church spires.
The towers of two churches, St Mary’s Assumption and St John’s, can be climbed. Then the sightseeing continues up stairs over the old town walls to a viewing terrace. Once again, the shirt sticks to the body – but it’s a good thing that the loss of fluids and calories can be compensated for in the many small, cosy restaurants. – dpa
Travel notes
How to get there: There are a few flights to Croatia (usually to either Zagreb or Dubrovnik) from Malaysia. From either city, you can fly to Rijeka and then drive to Rab. You can also go by ferry, but that would require you to first make your way to Valbiska, then Lopar, and then finally, to Misnjak. Alterna-tively, you can get a travel agent to make all the arrangements for you, or join a tour.
Accommodation: There is plenty of holiday accommodation on Rab, including studios, flats, holiday homes and some campsites. Large hotels, however, are hard to find.
Information: rab-visit.com or kvarner.hr or croatia.hr
