Within the horological world, the popular buzz phrase “nature-inspired” is an obvious one in any discussion about the Grand Seiko brand.
The roots of this design philosophy delve deeper and beyond the wealth of nature surrounding the brand’s key workshops.
Of course, it is true that the brand’s two watchmaking facilities − Shinshu Watch Studio (where the spring drive and quartz models are made) and Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi (home to the brand’s mechanical watchmaking exploits) − are intentionally nestled in idyll, rural Japanese landscapes.
And let’s not forget that Grand Seiko’s Zaratsu polishing method also links back to nature through the core brand philosophy, “The Nature of Time.”
This reflects time, not as an abstract measurement, but as an ever-changing expression of the natural world.
As such, the Zaratsu method is the mechanical bridge that allows a watch case to interact and reflect that natural environment, through the traditional Japanese aesthetic play of light and shadow.
The award-winning Grand Seiko designer Akira Yoshida was on hand at Sincere Fine Watches’ Pavilion Kuala Lumpur boutique to explore the art of using nature as a key design element for the brand’s latest Evolution 9 collection.
This is a new flagship line of luxury watches that modernises the brand’s historic 1967 Grand Seiko Style design code with a focus on enhanced legibility, aesthetic harmony and ergonomic wrist comfort.
“This refreshed core lineup is inspired by Lake Suwa that sits across our manufacture in Shiojiri, within the Nagano prefecture.
“The rippled pattern of the lake creates a soft contrast of light and shadow, especially when paired with a darker dial colour.
“In low-light conditions, that contrast becomes an even more beautiful way to express the dial pattern,” explains Yoshida proudly.
He’s also quick to point out that the new watch designs feature a wealth of very sensible things such as clean angles, low centres of gravity for wrist comfort, and long-term functional usability; this makes them a wonderful take on practical beauty.
“That’s right, the Evolution 9 is, first and foremost, based on Grand Seiko’s design grammar, which was established in 1967 with the model known as the 44GS,” he continues with a smile.
“What we’ve done is to update the design to suit the modern era, and this follows three principles: an evolution in aesthetics, an evolution in legibility and also an evolution in wearing comfort.
“The goal was to create a powerful expression of light through mirror-like reflections, with shadows being deliberately used as a contrasting element.
“In other words, the deeper the shadow, the more brilliantly the contrasting light shines.”
He goes on to say that to this effect, watches in the Evolution 9 collection employ a primarily brushed finish, intentionally blurring the boundary between light and shadow to express the beauty of soft gradients created by the interplay.
“Within Japanese culture, the beauty of light and shadow has traditionally been found not in sharp contrasts between the two, but rather in subtle gradations where boundaries seem to disappear.
“Examples of this can be seen in traditional Japanese architecture, which diffuses light to gently illuminate interior spaces.”
Viewed from this perspective, he points out, the way the Evolution 9 watches are designed to effectively use reflected light upon its surfaces as a design element is founded on a more distinctly Japanese aesthetic sensibility.
Bringing this unique idea from design aesthetics to physical form obviously involves a team of dedicated artisans, and Yoshida was certainly keen to explain the process.
“We share that design vision with our in-house craftspeople using photographs, sketches and other visual references. Then based on these, the craftspeople create their own interpretations of the pattern.
“From there, we go through countless rounds of prototypes and refinements until the final design is achieved.”
He also reveals that it’s the brand’s craftspeople, with their deep knowledge of the tools and techniques, who often create the fine details to elevate the key design textures even further.
“In many cases, the best results come from giving them the freedom to apply their own skill and intuition.
“For instance, hand engraving is especially well suited to creating soft, organic expressions to express the timeless beauty of water.
“And because this pattern represents water, capturing the reflections and shimmer on the surface was also essential.
“To achieve this, we created numerous facets in the die used on the watch face that strongly reflect light.
“As a result, these reflective surfaces scatter light in different directions, creating a rich and complex appearance that changes depending on the viewing angle.”
Yoshida believes this light and shadow interplay has also worked well when it comes to more robust sport and diver models within Evolution 9 collection.
“These watches also inherit the multifaceted hands and indexes that reflect light in a soft, diffused manner.
“That’s why each case design is also carefully engineered with light reflection in mind.
“By enhancing the presence of highlights and reflected light, we achieved a balance between elegance and strength.
“The compact case size and slender lugs create a refined and sophisticated impression, while still conveying the robustness and dynamism expected of a sport watch.
“When designing a sport model, the need for durability and robustness often leads to a larger case, which in turn typically calls for a dial design with a stronger and more assertive character,” he elaborates.
Yoshida keenly points out that the Evolution 9 collection has been created to retain a sense of elegance while embracing a style that supports a more active way of life.
“You can see this in its predominantly brushed surfaces, flat bezel, wide hands and broader bracelet proportions.
“In recent years, values have increasingly shifted toward seeking diverse experiences and opportunities through one’s own initiative.
“So, here are watches designed to complement an active lifestyle.
“For that reason, they share many qualities with contemporary, fashionable pieces that look good on the wrist, while offering a wealth of modern sensibilities,” Yoshida adds.
