The new Doxa SUB 300 Beta Ceramic is as stealthy as it is radiant.
Haute horlogerie’s most esteemed brands, visionary creators and discerning collectors converged at Dubai Watch Week 2025.
Held at Burj Park in downtown Dubai, UAE, the five-day event last month unfolded as a celebration of fine watchmaking with immersive exhibitions, exclusive launches and thoughtful dialogue.
Returning for its 7th edition in a close to 18,600sq metre space, the international exhibition consolidated Dubai’s position as a global hub for horology and luxury.
It attracted some 50,000 visitors and featured over 90 participating brands, many of which presented their latest novelties in architecturally-striking pavilions.
Gerald Charles’ pavilion at Dubai Watch Week 2025 was one of the largest among independent maisons.
Boasting cutting-edge innovations and intriguing design narratives, these timepieces underscored the technical mastery and creative vision behind the modern world of watchmaking.
The intellectual space called Horology Forum also featured a stellar lineup and new formats which saw free-flowing conversations between craftsmen, industry leaders, visionaries and serious collectors.
These were some of the highlights.
One-of-a-kind watches
The Gerald Charles Maison underlined its growing stature within the global horological community with one of the event’s largest pavilions at 159sq m, offering visitors a curated array of watchmaking experiences.
Gerard Charles’ Maestro GC39 Remaster Diamond Baguettes with the proprietary Meta Guillochage engraving.
This included the Gerald Charles Atelier Museum − leaving Geneva for the first time − which highlighted rare original sketches, archival timepieces and insights into founder Gerald Charles Genta’s visionary design legacy.
It also launched a one-off timepiece, the Maestro GC39 Remaster Diamond Baguettes, featuring a bezel set with 60 diamonds totalling 2.66ct.
Created to mark the Maison’s 25th anniversary, its dial was produced using the proprietary Meta Guillochage micro-chemical engraving technique.
The result is a Baroque-inspired, multi-ray star motif that reacts to shifting light and frames a lapis lazuli centre.
Located at 12 o’clock position is a rare, jumping hours complication, a tribute to the founder’s fascination for sophisticated yet playful mechanics.
Modernised approach of Doxa
An unprecedented matte black and sunburst cherry red two-tone finish makes the new Doxa SUB 300 Beta Ceramic as stealthy as it is radiant.
It draws on the DNA of the revolutionary SUB, first launched in 1967 and regarded as the first true professional diving watch accessible to the general public.
This modern version − with only 11 pieces produced − is equally at ease in the sea or the city, thanks to the 42.5mm case with pressure-resistant, titanium inner container, a unidirectional rotating bezel with dual indication of dive time and depth, a screw-down crown and water resistance up to 300m.
Anti-reflective, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal protects a dial enlivened by luminous white hands and indices.
It remains a true dive watch, with deployant clasp and wetsuit extension alongside a 38-hour power reserve.
Groundbreaking designer collection
A groundbreaking collaboration with renowned Emirati artist Mattar Lahej brings new depth and cultural resonance to Bvlgari’s iconic Octo Finissimo collection.
Limited to 70 pieces, the Mattar Bin Lahej X Octo Finissimo features laser-engraved Arabic calligraphy across its sandblasted titanium case, bracelet and dial.
Emirati artist Mattar Lahej’s calligraphic artistry is brought to life on Bvlgari’s iconic Octo Finissimo.
The engraving draws inspiration from the words of United Arab Emirates vice-president and prime minister Sheikh Mohammed Rashid Al Maktoum: “The future will be for those who can imagine, design and implement it. The future does not wait, but it can be designed and built today.”
A transparent caseback reveals the artist’s signature and ultra-thin BVL 138 movement.
Cotes de Geneve, chamfering and Perlage finishings enhance the watch, which has a 60-hour power reserve.
The Mattar Bin Lahej X Octo Finissimo by Bvlgari features laser-engraved Arabic calligraphy.
Limited-edition Bremont watches
Standout items are the limited-edition Terra Nova 40.5 Jumping Hour Aventurine and skeletonised Altitude Perpetual Calendar GMT Monopusher.
The former, limited to 50 pieces, elevates the brand’s Terra Nova collection with a deep blue Aventurine glass dial that is diamond-cut and hand-finished for exceptional brilliance.
Bremont’s skeletonised Altitude Perpetual Calendar GMT Monopusher is a picture of complexity.
A delicately grained 904L steel case adds tactile and visual contrast, while a leather blue strap ensures field-ready robustness.
The skeletonised edition of the Altitude Perpetual Calendar celebrates the beauty and ingenuity of the exquisite Agenhor movement within.
It features a grade 2 titanium case with signature three-piece Trip-Tick construction, openworked dial with GMT function, and decorative arms in Air Force Blue to accentuate subdials.
Bremont’s Terra Nova 40.5 Jumping Hour Aventurine sparkles like diamonds.
New dials for Monday
Independent watchmaker Renaud Tixier bridged innovation and traditional craftsmanship with a pair of new dials for its flagship Monday watch.
Redefining the model’s neo-classical aesthetic, they have a larger flange, more sculptural indices and a satin ring encircling the signature graine texture – giving the display greater depth and visual comfort.
Renaud Tixier’s Monday watch in Petrol Blue.
An open flywheel at nine o’clock remains a key accent, making the watch’s function part of the spectacle.
The 40.8mm case also has hand engraving along the flanks.
Two colourways create distinct looks – British Racing Green adding warm sporting elegance to a rose gold case and green leather strap, while Petrol Blue oozes class alongside white gold and a suede blue leather strap.
Reimagined Deep Raider Renaissance series
Two new interpretations of Favre Leuba’s Deep Raider Renaissance series spotlight dials crafted from semi-precious stone – the Renaissance Meteorite and Renaissance Malachite.
The Meteorite version uses Muonionalusta iron meteorite sourced from northern Sweden, a first in the brand’s 288-year history.
Favre Leuba’s Deep Raider Renaissance Malachite features vivid green tones and flowing concentric patterns
Composed of iron, nickel, kamacite and taenite, it has a distinct Widmanstatten pattern formed over millions of years and revealed through precise slicing and acid treatment.
No two dials look alike.
The Malachite edition, crafted from a natural mineral known for vivid green tones and flowing concentric patterns, has an equally distinct visual identity.
Both watches share the same technical framework – a 40mm stainless steel case with 300m water resistance, a ceramic unidirectional-rotating bezel, automatic FLD02 movement with 68-hour power reserve, transparent caseback, Cotes de Geneve decorative finishing, and skeletonised 4N-toned engraved rotor.
Evolution of Black Hole collection
Vanguart’s acclaimed Black Hole collection saw an evolution with two exquisite timepieces – the Arabic Numerals and Rose Gold editions.
The Black Hole Arabic Numerals is testament to cultural inclusivity, being the first of its kind to feature hand-painted Arabic numerals on a concentric, three-tier automaton dial with linear time display.
Vanguart’s Black Hole Arabic Numerals show the unique markings on a concentric, three-tier automaton dial.
A central levitating flying tourbillon is powered by an in-house movement with 775 components.
The satin-finished and hand-beveled grade 5 titanium case is just 15.75mm thick and 45mm diagonally.
The Black Hole Rose Gold is an equally masterful blend of technical innovation and sophisticated craftsmanship, featuring a rose gold case with similar dimensions.
Both timepieces offer 42 hours of power reserve and are limited to eight pieces each.
