Dark eyes, natural blush, crimson lips: Key beauty looks on fashion week runways


Cat eyes with a twist are featured at Erdem's show. Photo: AFP

The Autumn/Winter 2024 runways for New York, London and Milan fashion week delighted style enthusiasts with fresh takes on trends, timeless designs and avant-garde offerings.

Close-ups of the models also gives us a taste of the beauty trends that are growing in popularity, which range from high-impact eyeliner and eyeshadow colours to natural-looking blush and deep-red lips.

While Paris (the last of the big four) has yet to conclude, experts are already weighing in on the makeup trends that will be big towards the end of the year.

Here’s a look at the top makeup trends that are set to take the beauty world by storm come Autumn.

Smudged makeup

Feel like a hot mess sometimes? Not to worry as “lived-in glam” is all the rage, as seen at the Prabal Gurung show in New York Fashion Week, where models strutted the runway in smudgy makeup with a “morning-after” feel.

Similar looks were spotted at Altuzarra, where models were done up in soft grunge makeup, and at London Fashion Week’s (LFW) Yuhan Wang runway, where makeup was purposefully smudged.

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A model at the Conner Ives show with yellow lash extensions and light blue eyeshadow. Photo: Instagram/Lucy Bridge
A model at the Conner Ives show with yellow lash extensions and light blue eyeshadow. Photo: Instagram/Lucy Bridge
Bold eyes

Dark eye makeup is bigger than ever, with numerous styles coming into play at the recent runways.

Erdem’s models wore a reinvented version of cat eyes, created by lining the eyes with black eyeliner, but with the tails stemming from the eyelids instead of the outer corners of the eye.

At both the Frolov and Huishan Zhang shows in London, models wore heavy black eye makeup on top of and beneath their lashlines for a grunge effect.

The Helmut Lang show at NYFW featured models with full rims of black shadow and Marc Jacobs’ took it a step further with excessive levels of black shadow coupled with super long and voluminous lashes.

Playing with colour

Designers tend to inject fun into their creations, and to complement this, they often conceptualise makeup looks to match.

LFW saw models at the Che Lo show sporting silver tears running down their cheeks, and at Conner Ives, yellow lash extensions stood out against a backdrop of light blue eyeshadow.

At Marques’Almeida, models’ eyelids were painted in neon pink, with black eyeliner lining the lower lash lid.

During the Etro show in Milan, colours made the models’ looks pop, with green colour lining the lower lid on some, and Alice + Olivia’s NYFW runway saw black-cat eyes enhanced by a graphic white contrast.

Natural flush

Healthy glows were big at the London shows, with designers giving their models’ cheekbones done up to look like a natural flush.

At both Burberry and Susan Fang, the focal point of the models’ faces were the high points of their faces which were painted in hues of neutral blush, complemented with bee-stung lips and barely-there eye makeup.

Crimson lips

Bright red lips at JW Anderson and Richard Quinn, lacquered lips featuring red lipstick and plum-coloured lip liner at Roksanda and burgundy lips at Anna Sui – it’s clear that red lips are here to stay.

Apart from the bright reds, moody burgundy is set to become a trend, thanks to Pat McGrath’s take on the 1930s club scene in London, an idea crafted to perfection for the Anna Sui show.

Burgundy lips were also seen on the Prabal Gurung runway, with models sporting the colour in matte, cool-toned hues.

High gloss complexions as seen on a model getting makeup applied backstage at the Christian Siriano Autumn/Winter 2024 fashion show. Photo: AP
High gloss complexions as seen on a model getting makeup applied backstage at the Christian Siriano Autumn/Winter 2024 fashion show. Photo: AP

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High-gloss complexions

Another trend that’s not going away is glass skin, that seemingly unattainable shine that falls somewhere in between full-on exercise-induced sweating and a slightly-glossy gleam.

Various shows saw models strutting out onto the runway with high-gloss complexions, with some intentionally made to look like they were fresh out of a steam room.

Among the designers whose makeup teams adopted this shiny look were Christian Siriano, Collina Strada, Kim Shui and the sportswear brand Puma.

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