Ask The Expert: What you need to know about getting a well-cut suit tailored

Getting a suit tailored should not be a daunting experience. Don't be afraid to ask questions. Photo: The Star/YAP CHEE HONG

Ask The Expert is a monthly column to answer your questions on topics related to fashion and beauty.

This month, Malaysian menswear designer Vincent Siow, founder of tailoring boutique Vestio Bespoke. replied to the questions.

Can you explain the difference between the terms “bespoke” and “off-the-rack” when it comes to suits? What about “made-to-measure”, is it the same as “bespoke”? – Raj, Petaling Jaya

An “off-the-rack” suit is a ready-made suit based on the brand’s cutting with set sizes. Now, most consumers are often confused with the terms “bespoke” and “made-to-measure” when it comes to suits. Made-to-measure suits are based on existing patterns, with slight changes according to one’s measurements. Bespoke suits are considered the pinnacle of tailoring where the entire garment including patterns is made from scratch based on your measurements.

I’ve never gotten a suit made by a tailor before, and I’m a little intimidated by the thought of walking into a bespoke tailoring boutique. What questions should I ask and what are the basics about having a suit made? – Adam, Penang

You should research and have a basic idea of the suit styles that appeal to you. It could be just a picture of James Bond running in a suit, or a sartorially dressed man in a suit. This gives the tailor a better understanding of the style you prefer and he can give recommendations on fabrics and styles. With that in mind, ask your tailor what he would do based on your body shape, size and posture.

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I’m looking for a decently priced tailored suit, but I’m worried about it looking cheap. What’s your advice? Are there little elements regarding a suit that can help elevate the look and feel of a suit? – Lester, Shah Alam

I would prioritise two things: fabric and buttons. Make sure the material you decide on doesn’t have a shine, but a sheen. Some materials under spotlight will shine and it shows the quality of the material. Secondly, pay attention to the buttons, it is a small element but essential to elevate the look of the suit.

Vincent Siow says your tailor is the best person to help you choose the right cut, colour and style to fit your looks. Photo: The Star/YAP CHEE HONG

As a woman, I’m always a little shy to walk into a bespoke boutique for suits as I feel that it’s meant for men. Can a men’s tailor also design for women? – Nell, Petaling Jaya

There is a difference between men and women’s suits, whic is that the tailor has to account for the area of the bust and create different patterns for your body. The major difference will be dart placements. However, most tailors will be able to do both male and female suits.

Can you explain the term “broken suit”? I’ve been seeing the term mentioned a lot in the media. Also, are there any don’ts when following this trend? – CK, Melaka

A “broken suit” is where a wearer breaks from wearing the suit jacket with its matching trousers. That is the art of wearing a suit jacket with different trousers. Italians call it “Abito Spezzato”. I don’t think there are any major don’ts but mixing and matching pieces and colours that are complementary, and pleasing to the eye, requires creativity and courage which can be cultivated by doing more of it!

Looking at pictures of men attending Pitti Uomo shows in Florence, they really stand out in colourful suits. What’s your take on less conventional colours (other than grey, navy, black) that I should be aware of, if I’m getting one tailored? – Tan, Bangsar

I would suggest colours in darker tones if it’s your first foray into coloured suits, such as burgundy or forest green to ease the transition. The rest will be up to the courage you can muster to stand out and bravely wear a bright coloured suit. One tip I always tell customers when making bright coloured suits is to keep design details as basic as possible and to allow the colour to be the focus of the suit.

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Can you recommend the specific cuts for a suit for different body shapes? Like a longer jacket to hide a larger waistline or a cropped jacket to make your legs longer? – Gee, Damansara

Your tailor should be able to give recommendations based on your body shape and height. The thing to note is contrasting elements when tailoring a suit. For example, a person with a wider face should not have thin lapels, as the contrast will highlight the width of one’s face. Most times, it is not changing one element of a suit (for example, cropping a jacket length to elongate the legs) but it is about finding the balance in proportion and the interaction of the suit jacket and trousers based on the customer’s body.

Do you have any questions on fashion and beauty? Email us with the subject heading Ask The Expert to [e-mail]. Please include your name, address, contact number and if you prefer, a pseudonym.