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Smoky whisky with open fire cooking? Sure, why not?
Highland Park may not be THE smokiest of whiskies, but its signature heather peated expressions are unique in their own right. And when paired with the open fire cooking of BarKar, it is almost a match made in heaven.
Founded in 1798 in the city of Kirkwall in the Orkney Islands, Highland Park is the northernmost distillery in Scotland and is known for a sweet peaty whisky, with smoky, honey flavours, and matured in sherry casks. Recently listed as a Michelin Selected restaurant in the most recent edition of the Michelin Guide Kuala Lumpur And Penang, BarKar dishes tend to highlight cooking methods that use wood flame or fire, and does not use gas at all.
Available for a limited period only, the exclusive Highland Park menu pairs some of the outlet's most famous signature dishes with three Highland Park whiskies - the 12-Year-Old, 15-Year-Old, and 18-Year-Old.
It starts with a trio of starters – Foie Gras Samosa, Grilled Tree-Ripened Strawberry, Smoked Century Egg with Caviar, all paired with the 12-Year-Old which, for me, is a quintessential Highland Park, and a true all-rounder whisky.
On the nose, you get a perfect balance of sherry notes and sweet peat; while on the palate, there are more flavours of sweet citrus fruits, and a nice long finish with hints of light smoke.
The whisky’s citrus and light peat went well with the Foie Gras Samosa; while the Grilled Tree-Ripened Strawberry enhanced its fruity notes.
The Smoked Century Egg with Caviar is Barkar’s signature, and while delicious, the richness of the century egg drowned out the sweeter notes of the 12YO a little.
The next two dishes were not ‘official’ pairings, but I tried them together nonetheless. First, a Trio of Smoked Fish – tuna, kingfish and Salmon, all aged for eight days and smoked, which went really, really well with the 12YO whisky’s light smoke and maritime notes.
The other dish, Grilled Wild-Caught Tiger Prawn, was served with a lovely Prawn Bisque that was cooked with some Highland Park 12YO, and served with a nice fried ulam salad (to "cut off the 'jelakness' of the bisque” according to BarKar's co-founder Chef Lee Zhexi).
For the mains, the first one to be served was BarKar’s super-tender Signature Lamb Ribs with Vinegar and Nipah Sugar Glaze, which is inspired by the classic Chinese dish of vinegar pork trotters (minus the pork), and it was paired with the Highland Park 15 Year Old.
Matured in ex-sherried American oak casks, the 15 Year Old has a nose that is quite vanilla-forward with some of that heather peat; while on the palate, you'll get vanilla, citrus, fruitcake, smoke, and a sweet malty flavours that end with a delightful fruity finish, with light smoke lingering in the background.
Paired the lamb ribs, I found that the 15YO's citrus and vanilla notes were enhanced by the sharper vinegar notes of the dish, with the slightly higher ABV of the whisky (44%), lending a richer, creamier mouthfeel to the meat as well.
The highlight for me, however, was the pairing for the Highland Park 18-Year-Old. Aged entirely in ex-sherry oak casks, the whisky itself is one of my favourites in Highland Park's core range. The nose and palate is full of honey and sweet smoke, with a lovely bouquet of orchard fruits coming to the fore and smoke in the background.
The whisky was paired with the Belacan-Aged Sirloin, which had a juicy, almost ‘siew yoke’-like texture and a heavenly, meaty, rich belacan note that made for a great contrast with the richer, sherry-heavy dark fruit notes of the Highland Park 18-Year-Old.
Dessert was another winner – Pineapple Alaska, which features pineapple soaked with honey, Highland Paark 12YO, and soy sauce, served with an interesting chilii and pineapple ice cream flambéed with more Highland Park whisky.
And as Chef Lee explained, it really does remind me of how I used to eat pineapples with rojak chili paste when I was a kid, with the whisky adding a richer, malty note to it.
While the menu's pairing of the whisky and food was for the most part spot on, I was a little disappointed that some of the items were existing dishes on the BarKar's menu (albeit tailored or tweaked) rather than new ones made to pair exclusively with the whiskies.
All the same, if you are looking for a whisky pairing menu that manages to pair good food with great whiskies, this will definitely won't disappoint.