The elegant interior of Flour Restaurant. — Photos: GLENN GUAN/The Star
Be prepared for a mind-changing experience when you dine at Flour in Kuala Lumpur. Chef Yogesh Upadhyay, 47, fondly known as Chef Yogi, is redefining Indian cuisine, envisioning it in his own intrepid way.
“Each course at Flour is a planned journey where the food feeds the body, the intention feeds the soul,” he says.
Flour’s edgy French-Indian approach is ahead of its time, and Yogesh readily acknowledges that his avant-garde dishes are largely misunderstood due to preconceived notions of what Indian food is.
“Malaysians think they know Indian food − for them it’s just categorised as Northern or Southern Indian, but India is such a huge continent with so many different regions. I urge diners to have an open mind when they come. Be prepared to embark on a unique culinary journey to discover fresh narratives on the judicious and diverse use of spices, the origins of regional dishes, and emphasis on vegetarianism.”
Hailing from Rajasthan in India, Yogesh was roped into his father’s restaurant business while in his teens.
“I hated menial tasks like peeling garlic and onions, and my father would force me to eat and taste the different herbs and leaves he plucked on our walks together. Little did I know that the experience and knowledge would prove invaluable in my later years,” he says.
Chef Yogi plating one of the courses.
To avoid going into the family restaurant business and in rebellion against his father, Yogesh chose to pursue hotel management and French culinary arts instead. He relocated to Dubai in the UAE and was involved in the aviation industry there.
He came to Malaysia in 2014 when he took a corporate management role with AirAsia X. That was when he met his wife, Natasha Ng. He recalled cooking an Indian meal for her when they were dating. His culinary efforts changed her perception of Indian food and after they got married, she encouraged him to open a restaurant.
“We named our restaurant Flour as it’s an essential ingredient for bread-making. Without flour, there would be no Indian food,” says Yogesh.
Instead of going down the tried-and-tested path, he wanted to pay homage to the rich legacy of Indian cuisine and its diversity with his own approach.
“Flour brings the future of Indian cuisine to the present through my knowledge and research on the past, using modern French techniques and thoughtfully composed degustation-style menus.”
When the restaurant first opened in Damansara Heights seven years ago, he recalled it was no bed of roses.
“Thanks to a positive review online, both locals and expatriates soon started beating a path to our door.”
Dining pseudo al fresco at Flour Restaurant in the covered corridor.
Flour then relocated in 2020 to its present premises: a spacious bungalow renovated to the couple’s exacting standards. Unfortunately, it was extremely challenging as the restaurant opened during the Covid-19 pandemic, but they persevered. The chef’s bold, future-forward approach turned traditional Indian food completely on its head, knocking it out of the park for most Malaysians who associate Indian food with chilli-spiciness and big, robust flavours.
“Indian food can be light, delicious and is as diverse as the country itself. Each course in the tasting menu is my interpretation on how Indian food has evolved while remaining faithful to its roots. Every region has its own unique flavours and ingredients; the dishes are characterised by the ingenious use of spices and not chilli.”
Yogesh recounts an incident when a diner claims she has a spice allergy, and he insists that nobody is allergic to spices.
“After seeking further clarification from her, I prepared our famed butter chicken with naan for her. Not only did she enjoy the chunks of chicken tikka, she loved the velvety red sauce of Italian Marzano tomatoes, lightly spiced with green cardamom powder and fenugreek leaves,” he says.
Even as he laments the lack of a life outside the long hours devoted to the restaurant, the passionate chef admits to frequently thinking, sleeping and dreaming of food. He habitually takes notes of his dreams, ideas and random thoughts.
“I never know when the information may come in handy. Each menu introduced at Flour is a culmination of thorough research, voracious reading, multiple thought processes, and constant experimenting.
“My team thinks I’m crazy but they’re used to it by now. At Flour, every element is planned down to the smallest details. To ensure diners understand the culinary journey, I make a point to personally share interesting facts covering the historical aspects and origins of the food they’re eating.
“I’m their guide throughout the meal, to ensure that they leave with better insight and greater understanding of Indian cuisine,” he explains.
When it comes to his favourite comfort food, Yogesh says he really misses pav bhaji, a popular Mumbai-street food of mashed potatoes, tomatoes, onions, carrots, peas and bell peppers in a spiced stew, accompanied by bread. His favourite is from a humble restaurant in Mumbai that serves only pav bhaji with cheese. On the home front, he’s an ardent fan of bak kut teh, declaring the Chinese herb-accented pork broth as “the best pork bone soup in the world”.
At Flour, dining is more than just an experience. It’s a form of education,” he adds.
Similar to Bangkok-based Gaggan Anand’s progressive view of Indian food, Chef Yogi is also to be commended for his groundbreaking efforts to elevate the stature of Indian cuisine in Malaysia.
