Culinary inspirations: Tok Jilah’s amazing laksa Johor

Laksa Johor is a point of pride in Johor although it involves a labyrinthine process to get it just right. — Photos: KALSOM TAIB

My paternal grandmother, Marjilah binti Yusof Kartomulya, fondly known as Tok Jilah, lived in Parit Bakar, a small village about eight kilometres from Muar. My grandfather, Andak Jamak, had passed away in 1936 when he was 61 years old and my father was then 20 and studying at Raffles College in Singapore. Her youngest daughter, Zaharah (Mak Chu) was only 12. Tok Jilah single-handedly raised her eight children on a pension of RM60 per month. Andak had retired as Inspector of Schools in 1930.

Tok Jilah did not receive any formal education, but she was able to read and write. She was known for her culinary skills in Parit Bakar, particularly for her laksa Johor.