A variety of kuih, including kuih bongkol seen at left, at one of the Satok Ramadan bazaar stalls. - ZULAZHAR SHEBLEE/The Star
IN the bustling ambience of the Satok Bazaar in Kuching, amid a profusion of local culinary delights, traditional delicacies hold sway in the hearts of visitors, particularly for breaking fast during Ramadan.
One such cherished dish is bubur pedas, a spicy vegetable-based porridge, celebrated as a Sarawakian favourite for the buka puasa meal.
Samnah Jap, a seasoned trader, imparts the essence of the dish crafted from a treasured recipe spanning 25 years that she prepares diligently daily with her family.
Wrapped in nipah palm leaves, pais is made from sago flour and coconut mixed with fish and other seafood. - ZULAZHAR SHEBLEE/The Star
“Besides rice, the main ingredients are vegetables like long beans, dried beancurd, mushrooms, cangkuk manis and potatoes. The vegetables must be finely chopped while the potatoes are diced.
“We also add some chicken to our bubur pedas,” she said at her stall.
Samnah said bubur pedas gets its distinctive taste from a special paste of spices such as turmeric, lemongrass, ginger and onions.
Terubok is a local fish popular in Sarawak and is often served grilled or salted. - ZULAZHAR SHEBLEE/The Star
Bubur pedas is also a favourite dish for Sarawak Yang di-Pertua Negeri Tun Dr Wan Junaidi Tuanku Jaafar and his wife Toh Puan Fauziah Mohd Sanusi.
“My must-have dishes for breaking fast are bubur pedas, tapai and kuih bongkol,” he said when visiting the Satok Ramadan bazaar recently.
Kuih bongkol, a sweet treat enveloped in banana leaves, exudes its own allure during Ramadan.
Customers looking at a selection of pais at the Satok Ramadan bazaar in Kuching. - ZULAZHAR SHEBLEE/The Star
Crafted meticulously by skilled hands like those of Fiza Sapiee, this delicacy, made from rice flour, coconut milk, and nipah palm sugar (locally known as gula apong), holds a place of honour among patrons.
“It takes time and skill to prepare kuih bongkol, especially wrapping it. The banana leaves must be cut to the right size and folded to wrap the kuih like a parcel,” said Fiza.
At another kuih stall, trader Mohd Nizam Mohd Rosdi said kuih bongkol is the most popular item among customers.
Sarawak Yang di-Pertua Negeri Tun Dr Wan Junaidi Tuanku Jaafar and his wife Toh Puan Fauziah Mohd Sanusi buying local kuih at the Satok Ramadan bazaar. — ZULAZHAR SHEBLEE / The Star
“We get a variety of local kuih from different suppliers. Business is mostly good but it slows down on rainy days,” he said.
Adding to the gastronomic spectacle are seafood delicacies like terubok, pais, and sotong tutok.
Pais, a delectable fusion of sago flour, coconut, and seafood, meticulously wrapped in nipah palm leaves and grilled, is a labour of love passed down through generations, as Nurul Hafikah Fany attests.
Samnah arranging tubs of bubur pedas at her stall. - ZULAZHAR SHEBLEE/The Star
Nurul Hafikah makes pais with different types of fish as well as prawns and squid, which she sells at RM2.50 to RM3 each.
“I learnt to make pais from my mother. She had been selling it since 1997 but now I have taken over because she is getting old,” said Nurul Hafikah.
Meanwhile, Zafilus Ismadi continues the tradition of offering grilled and salted terubok, sourced locally from Sebuyau.
Zafilus Ismadi selling grilled terubok at the Satok Ramadan bazaar. - ZULAZHAR SHEBLEE/The Star
“We also sell salted terubok roe at another market in Kubah Ria,” he said.
The grilled terubok is priced from RM25 for fish without roe to RM40 for those with roe.
“Most customers prefer the fish with roe as it has a rich taste,” Zafilus added.
At another stall, this one selling sotong tutok, Salim Brahim commands attention with his deft mastery of pounding grilled squid into tender submission – a spectacle that has delighted visitors since 1990.
