Nepali sherpa saves Malaysian climber in rare Everest 'death zone' rescue

KATHMANDU (Reuters): A Malaysian climber narrowly survived after a Nepali sherpa guide hauled him down from below the summit of Mount Everest in a "very rare" high altitude rescue, a government official said on Wednesday (May 31).

Gelje Sherpa, 30, was guiding a Chinese client to the 8,849m Everest summit on May 18 when he saw the Malaysian climber clinging to a rope and shivering from extreme cold in the area called the "death zone", where temperatures can dip to -30°C or lower.

Gelje hauled the climber 600m down from the Balcony area to the South Col, over a period of about six hours, where Nima Tahi Sherpa, another guide, joined the rescue.

Gelje Sherpa: Saving one life is more important than praying at the monastery. - Photo: REUTERS

"We wrapped the climber in a sleeping mat, dragged him on the snow or carried him in turns on our backs to Camp III," Gelje said.

A helicopter using a long line then lifted him from the 7162m high Camp III down to Base Camp.

"It is almost impossible to rescue climbers at that altitude," Department of Tourism official Bigyan Koirala told Reuters. "It is a very rare operation."

Gelje said he convinced his Chinese client to give up his summit attempt and descend the mountain, saying it was important for him to rescue the climber.

"Saving one life is more important than praying at the monastery," said Gelje, a devout Buddhist.

Tashi Lakhpa Sherpa of the Seven Summit Treks company, which provided logistics to the Malaysian climber, declined to name him, citing his client's privacy.

The climber was put on a flight to Malaysia last week.

Nepal issued a record 478 permits for Everest during this year's March to May climbing season.

At least 12 climbers have died - the highest number for eight years, and another five are still missing on Everest's slopes. - REUTERS