Kedah native continues family legacy of making this traditional delicacy

Hafizah (right, with her mother) fell in love with making traditional food at a young age. — HAFIZAH OMAR

The vibrant history of Malaysia often includes its diverse food offerings. But while some traditional dishes and snacks have stood the test of time and are still popular today, a few are actually at risk of being forgotten.

In Kedah, some locals are trying to revive the popularity of a sweet treat known as “gedung chak”. Hafizah Omar, 44, has been making gedung chak for decades, something she learned to do from her mother and grandmother.

Hafizah says that it is no longer easy to find the delicacy, and thinks that it is partly because of a single item that’s needed to make the kuih – nipah leaves, which is used to wrap the gedung chak.

The nipa palm or pokok nipah, can be found in abundance in Yan and Merbok in Kedah, but they are usually harvested for nira, or tree sap. This sap can be processed and turned into a sweet drink or even used as a sugar substitute.

The gedung chak is wrapped in daun nipah.

“People believe that once a pokok nipah is harvested for its nira, we cannot use it for other things, as doing so will ruin the sweetness of the drink,” Hafizah explained. Nipah leaves are preferred for gedung chak as they are more aromatic than others.

She added: “Gedung chak is a simple kuih that requires only three ingredients – glutinous rice flour, brown sugar (or gula melaka) and grated coconut. But people aren’t keen on preparing it nowadays. In fact, only a handful of people still know how to properly make them.”

Hafizah also said that there are very few steps to making gedung chak. First, melt the sugar until it becomes a syrup, then let it cool. Mix the glutinous flour with the grated coconut, and then slowly pour the cool syrup into the dry ingredients. Stir and mix just a little bit, and then transfer the concoction onto the nipah leaves.

Fold the leaves together lengthwise, and secure the ends with toothpicks. Place the leaves on a barbecue grill for about 10 to 15 minutes on medium heat. You can also use a large pan to do this on your stove.

“This is a family legacy for us, and I want to help others to re-establish a bond with our traditional food,” Hafizah said.