Craft cheeses are catching on

Golden wonder: Cheesemakers (from left) Sam Kennedy and Matt Hettlinger standing among the cheese in one of the storage areas at The Farm at Doe Run in Coatesville, Philadelphia.

Cheese is going the way of the craft beer movement: People are learning how to make it in small batches while taking advantage of local ingredients and terroir.

AS with regional brews, demand for regionally-made cheese is on the rise. Matt Hettlinger can attest to this. He is a cheesemaker, working for the past two years at The Farm at Doe Run in Coatesville, Philadelphia, about 40 miles west of Philadelphia. On a table dressed in burlap, several cheeses on plates accompany caramelised red onions, candied nuts and glasses filled with Pennsylvania beers.