Stepping back in time in the islands of St Kilda

A visit to this remote archipelago in Scotland’s north-west will leave an indelible mark on any visitor.

HALF an hour into the walk and my lungs are already screaming. Somewhere in the far recesses of my soon-to-be oxygen-starved brain (OK, I exaggerate) I recall Ranger Paul’s words: “If you get to that bend at the top where the road disappears from view and your legs and lungs are hurting, then it’s time to turn back because if you go any further and get lost or fall off the cliff we won’t know until it’s too late.”