A slice of heaven

Once upon a time, when the “ice cream” potong used to sell for some 20 sen in the 1970s, it was considered the cheapest cold treat in the market. Today, it retails for no less than RM1 and despite its traditional status, it is able to give its ice cream counterparts a tough fight in terms of market share.

The origins of the ice cream potong can be traced as far back to the 1940s with the advent of refrigeration. One version of its genesis has housewives, at loss of what to do with leftover sweet desserts like red bean porridge, freezing them into ice lollies. The traditional delight was sold in long sticks and freshly cut (potong in Malay) according to customer’s request, with varying prices according to length.

Chan Kok Leong, 50, a former insurance agent who invested some RM200, 000 to start his own ice cream potong business, Eaton Ice Cream, a year and a half ago, recalls seeing the cold traditional treat being made in the kitchen of a night market trader’s single-storey home.

Steel tubes about 60cm long were filled with various flavourings such as cendol, red bean or corn. The tubes were placed in an ice-filled tank with salt water (as salt acts to lower temperature) and swung back and forth for one and a half hours. Once hardened, the ice cream was taken out of the tubes, wrapped in tracing paper, cut into lengths of 8.89cm and placed in the freezer. This was 26 years ago but though the technique has seen improvements, the basic principles remain unchanged.

Recipes, usually closely guarded, vary. According to Steven Chen, a 67-year-old consultant of Pelangi Sedap, an ice cream supplier and distributor who has been in the business of delivering cold delights and other assorted treats for the past 10 years, says condensed milk, fresh fruit and coconut milk are the standard ingredients. Over the years, different recipes have surfaced, often featuring dairy-free and cheaper versions.

The last flavour

“The traditional appeal of ice cream potong is what keeps it evergreen,” says Chan.

At present, Eaton produces some 4,000 sticks a day in various flavours, adding a modern touch with chocolate and strawberry for the younger generation.

But by far, red bean remains the all-time favourite flovour, except during the durian and cempedak seasons. Chan has personally sold products under the Eaton label to grocery shops in Cheras, Gombak, Puchong and the Fashion Café in Kenanga City. Distributors take his goods on a cash basis, snapping up close to 20,000 sticks at a time.

There are many like Chan in the ice cream potong industry, from the family business that averages some 1,500 sticks a day to market leaders like King’s that sells millions of the popsicles to local hypermarkets and exports to Hong Kong, Singapore and Cambodia. Chan is even optimistic there is still room for new markets.

“When I started, I knew there would be competition, but I believe in doing my own job. One thing I have found out in my sales rounds is it is unlikely for competitors to want to carry the same products. If shop A is already carrying brand X, you can always approach shop B,” smiles Chan.

But, within the ice cream potong industry, a serious debate is brewing over coconut milk, the confection’s crucial ingredient: To use the powdered version or keep things natural?

For Chen, there is nothing like getting it fresh.

According to Chen, who carries the Yang Yang brand of ice cream potong, a name which began humbly in Singapore’s night markets 15 years ago and since 2010 has penetrated markets in Terengganu, Pahang, Selangor, Johor and Perak, so steadfast is the company on its insistence on fresh coconut milk, it ceased operations in the republic and moved to Johor, just so that it could be nearer to the source of this raw ingredient.

“The alternative was to use powdered coconut milk, but the processing stripped away the fragrance and we lost our customers,” says Chen who reveals that of the 50 kinds of ice cream his company distributes, 30% of sales is from ice cream potong.

To Chen’s knowledge, some 70% of the local ice cream potong makers have stayed away from the convenience of powdered coconut milk for the same reason. Two main issues, however, may bring about a change.

A manufacturer who averages about 4,000 sticks a day may have to handle some 30kg of fresh coconut milk on a daily basis. Freshness, transport, storage and refrigeration space are major concerns for handling the ingredient.

Bacteria count is another worry. According to Michael Loh, the 48-year-old general manager of F&N Creameries (M) Sdn Bhd, which carries the King’s ice cream potong brand, a name that has been in the market for 37 years, export markets like Hong Kong are extremely demanding in this aspect and companies who are keen to move into mass distribution must take this into serious consideration.

All wrapped up

Beyond this also lies the question of packaging. While the traditional wrapping of tracing paper is still acceptable for the domestic market, awareness and health certification bodies are demanding more secure alternatives.

Says Chan, the current packaging for Eaton, which has halal certification, covers the icy confection from top to bottom and costs him not less than RM2,000 daily. But he reckons it is an investment well spent as it offers a measure of protection against contamination.

The growth of the ice cream potong industry, going from local to global makes for an inspiring business story.

Malaysia started distributing ice cream potong to Singapore in 2000. Business enquiries started to pour in after satisfied consumers started to recommend the products to family and friends. Now, King’s products are also exported to Brunei, Cambodia, Canada, East Timor, Hong Kong, Indonesia, Macau and the Philippines.

In addition to the taste factor, the management of distribution channels is also key, says Loh, adding that success started with developing relationships with these selling points.

Today, some six million ice cream potong are sold a year. Some 30 to 40 trucks leave the factory each day, delivering the famous ice cream potong and other ice creams in the King’s and Magnolia brands.

The story of how traditional ice cream potong became the only cold treat item to be sold in the modern wholesale fashion mall Kenanga Wholesale City in the heart of Kuala Lumpur, is an example of an ice cream manufacturer-vendor relationship at work.

According to Tee Joo Teik, the 51-year-old supervisor of Fashion Café (a cappuccino and torte outlet located on the ground floor of the mall), the mall owner and the person behind Eaton Ice Cream were former class mates.

“When the mall opened to the public in October last year, a yoghurt company was considered but the management felt that it would not appeal to the crowd.

“What we wanted was an ice cream that no one would protest to and that was how Eaton came to have its freezer here. Due to the existing friendship, the deal was sealed overnight,” reveals Tee.