Wednesday, 23 July 2014

'Artificially intelligent' skincare serum: Like the ghosts of Christmas

The beauty world proffers products as magic bullets that no longer just treat the problem but understand how our skin works, so that future problems are prevented. Maybe this isn't "news" and jaded skincare experts will say, "No big deal, so what’s new?" But what if there’s a serum that acts like the ghosts of Christmas and is capable of looking into our past, present and future skin? Now that’s breaking news!

American brand Clinique claims to have pioneered custom-fit skincare, delivering a solution for every skin type and concern. As the first dermatologist-created brand based on the philosophy that great skin can be created, the latest serum aims to help you “create your best skin ever”.

The Clinique Smart Custom-Repair Serum is touted to deliver targeted repair that visibly addresses the skin’s changing needs. For five years and more, Clinique scientists conducted research to pair highly active elements with calming components for that perfect balance. The result is a cocktail of ingredients that work in synergy, contained within a powerful yet gentle serum.

New ambassador Debbie Goh
Celebrity Debbie Goh uses Clinique's new serum.

According to Dr Tom Mammone, executive director of Skin Physiology and Pharmacology for Estee Lauder Companies, Clinique believes in specialised efficacy, and the new serum addresses specific concerns to provide personalised custom-repair to damaged skin. “The serum has 37 worldwide patents filed in 14 locations, including the US, Australia, Canada, Japan, Korea, Hong Kong, South Africa and Singapore,” he said in a press statement.

The formula uses precision repair technology to repair the damage we see, and even the damage we don't see. What happens is the damaged skin sends out distress signals and the serum, reading the signs, delivers the appropriate dose to correct the situation.

“Our skin gives out a multitude of signals; there is constant signalling that occurs between the cells and different varieties of cells in the skin. Some examples of signals include interleukin signals; our skin has over 30 cell communication molecules between inflammatory cells and skin cells. Another example is prostaglandin; our skin has over two-dozen signals that alert the pro and anti-inflammatory cells in our skin,” Dr Mammone said.

The serum is designed in such a way that it’s “intelligent” enough to react to the situation at hand. “A simple analogy would be the lock and key – the key is the molecule that is patterned to only recognise one lock signal (that is hyperpigmentation, DNA repair, among others). For example, UP302 is a specific molecule that will only respond to the signal for hyper-pigmentation. Whilst the damage may not yet be visible, this serum addresses underlying skin concerns that we know will be evident in the future.”

If the ingredients aren't needed for a specific concern, then they remain "on call" – yes, the formula is claimed to be that intelligent. Dr Mammone explained further: “The ingredients that we put into the skin will form a reservoir but will not be used unless they are called upon by the specific signals. These actives are very specific for the action and have been selected for that particular function. The beauty of this specificity is that the particular ingredient will not be activated nor will it interfere with other ingredients unless the specific signal is called upon.”

After a 12-week study, the results (based on users’ feedback) were said to show visible improvement in uneven skin tone, dark spots, dullness, lines and wrinkles, and firming.

If your skin is in a chronic state of inflammation, it doesn't have the energy to repair damage. Only when it is in a relaxed state can it concentrate on fixing itself. Clinique’s Smart Custom-Repair Serum calms the skin, enabling a high concentration of actives to provide targeted repair according to the skin’s needs. Ingredients include red algae, licorice extract, caffeine, Dianella Ensifolia, Morus Nigra root, Scutellaria Baicelensis root, and grape extracts. These provide both calming and brightening effects.

It also contains antioxidants such as vitamin C and Ergothioneine to fight excess melanin production and salicylic acid that speeds the exfoliation process. The result? Improved radiance, smoothness, luminosity, diminished lines and fewer wrinkles. This is thanks to a blend of collagen boosting peptides and repair enzymes that help to correct UV damage. 

In addition, there are collagen boosting ingredients such as whey protein and Siegesbeckia Orientalis extract that rebuild the skin’s support structure to restore elasticity. Moisture levels are maintained with hyaluronic acid, barley, wheat germ and cucumber extracts, so that the skin stays hydrated, supple and plump.

Actress Debbie Goh said that serums form an integral part of her skincare regimen. The new smart serum “feels light, absorbs easily and works to repair damage according to my skin’s changing needs”. Clinique Smart Custom-Repair Serum is suitable for all skin types. Two pumps of the serum, gently massaged into the skin twice a day, is supposed to help with micro circulation.

> Available at Clinique counters nationwide at RM255 (30ml) and RM350 (50ml).

Tags / Keywords: Clinique , serum , hyperpigmentation , repair


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