Skating on sea ice in Sweden

From icy adventures to laid-back skiing and cool design, Sweden is the perfect place for a wintry break. This writer starts by skating on thick ice.

JOHN Savelid is waiting for me at Stockholm airport holding a strange bag that looks like a rucksack with too many straps. “It’s a day sack for skating,” he tells me, “but also a life jacket in case you go through.”