Made in China, but it belongs to Iceland

  • China
  • Tuesday, 11 Jun 2019

It’s still ours: Sales assistant Nuria Medina Marin folding a ‘lopi’ sweater in a store in Reykjavik. — AP

It’s still ours: Sales assistant Nuria Medina Marin folding a ‘lopi’ sweater in a store in Reykjavik. — AP

REYKJAVIK (Iceland): Trouble is rattling one of Iceland’s most distinctive industries: the production of the thick, hand-knitted “lopi” sweaters adored by tou­rists and worn with pride by locals.The individually produced, very warm sweaters have become a symbol of Iceland. But local knitters are upset at seeing their profit margins diminished by the appearance of sweaters actually made in China, albeit from authentic Icelandic wool.

The practice was started by some local manufacturers who have successfully outsourced the labour to China. Containers full of local yarn are shipped from the North Atlantic island nation, made into sweaters, then shipped back again, labelled as “hand-knitted from Icelandic wool”.

Knitting co-ops around Iceland, struggling to compete, have urged the government to ban companies from branding woollen sweaters as “Icelandic” unless they are made locally.

“People buy the imported sweaters as the real thing,” said Thuridur Einarsdottir, founder of the Handknitting Association of Iceland. “But it is not.”

The “lopi” yarn comes from Iceland’s 500,000 sheep, which have a fleece adapted to a rugged landscape with widely fluctuating temperatures.

The thick sweaters are impossible to make by machine. One adult-size sweater takes between 14 and 25 hours to knit, depending on the numbers of colours used and extra features like zippers and buttons.

Icelandic women have traditionally subsidised household income with the work, and today many sweeten their retirement years with the extra cash. With Chinese imports grabbing an estimated two-thirds market share – particularly among tourists – knitting co-ops around the country worry about the future.

“The trade thrives on tourists because most locals already own a sweater and they are very durable,” said Einarsdottir.

The quality of each garment ultimately comes down to the skill of the knitter, raising the question of what actually makes the sweater “Icelandic”.

“What if the sweater is made by a Polish resident in Iceland?” asked Bjarni Jonsson, owner of Nordic Store, a company that makes roughly 20,000 sweaters a year in China for its local retail business in Iceland.

“When does the sweater start – or stop – being Icelandic?”

To domestically produce the number of sweaters it produces in China, Nordic Store estimates it would need 200 to 250 people working full-time, in a country of 350,000 people.

“We don’t have that many knitters,” Jonsson said.

Locally made sweaters retail for about US$200 (RM832), while the Chinese ones sell for around US$170 (RM707), reflecting the wage gap between the two nations. — AP