Alcohol aged in bamboo for flavour


To the cellar: Chen, 30, carrying a bamboo trunk that has been injected with his alcoholic brew in the Yibin bamboo forest. — AFP

YIBIN: A manufacturer of Chinese liqueurs, Chen Chao wanders through the bamboo-covered mountains of southwestern China’s Sichuan province to his ‘cellar’, where he will check on this year’s prize blend.

In the absence of an oak barrel, the 30-year-old uses live bamboo trunks to age his spirit, a method reputed to confer a unique aroma and even medicinal benefits.

The cereal liqueur is introduced into bamboo trunks “via high-pressure injection techniques”, Chen said.

Young bamboos are preferred, he said, because they “heal” within days, allowing the spirit to mature before the trunk is finally cut in early April, in time for the annual Qingming, or tomb-sweeping, festival when many Chinese honour their ancestors.

During the ageing process, “the liqueur mingles with the flavone (the liquid released by the trunk) and the sap of bamboo”, Chen said, referring to the two ingredients renowned for their “detoxifying” effect and contribution towards healthy lungs, according to traditional Chinese medicine.

Trunk tasty: A woman pouring? liqueur ?into a tourist’s glass after being aged for several months?. — AFP
Trunk tasty: A woman pouring liqueur into a tourist’s glass after being aged for several months. — AFP

This method would also reduce the alcohol content of the beverage, since the bamboo absorbs it.

“Our production is fairly limited, roughly 50,000 to 60,000 bottles per year, each containing between 500 and 550ml,” Chen said, adding that there was a total annual output of at least 25,000 litres.

But he now hopes to increase that amount by using a “less invasive” and more efficient injection technique, in a bid to fend off competition.

“Previously, few people knew about bamboo alcohol, because the production was kept confidential. This is changing,” he said.

Chen learned the traditional technique in the eastern province of Fujian, where it originated.

He then launched his own brewing business in 2015 in Sichuan, in the heart of the famous Shunan Bamboo Sea, a vast forest known for the production of Wuliangye, a white spirit made with sorghum, sticky rice, maize, and wheat.

Traditional technique : A ?tourist posing on a bamboo trunk over a river at the Yibin bamboo forest, where bamboo liqueur is made by injecting and ageing alcohol inside the plant. — AFP
Traditional technique : A tourist posing on a bamboo trunk over a river at the Yibin bamboo forest, where bamboo liqueur is made by injecting and ageing alcohol inside the plant. — AFP

But his business has suffered since China launched a much-publicised anti-corruption campaign after President Xi Jinping came to power in 2012.

The anti-graft drive included a ban on giving extravagant gifts like expensive wines and spirits to public officials and “sent our business plunging”, Chen said.

During the last Tuen Ng, or Dragon Boat, Festival last year, his sales collapsed by two thirds compared to the previous year.

But recovery may be in sight. Wuliangye, the brand behind the eponymous spirit, had reported an 18% increase in its turnover and net income during the first half of last year. — AFP

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