A service at the mostly empty Church of Jesus the Nazarene, which houses Cortes’ tomb, in Mexico City. — Luis Antonio Rojas/The New York Times
MASS at the Church of Jesus the Nazarene in Mexico City rarely lures enough congregants to fill more than a few pews.
Trash piles up outside under broken stained-glass windows. The unhoused of the city’s old centre perform their bodily functions in its shadows.
