A Return Home Hunan restaurant in Hong Kong. — ©️2024 The New York Times Company
THE ravenous came for a taste of home in a dish of spicy fried beef or steamed fish head. Servers, speaking in Mandarin, delivered plates heated with green and red chillies.
It was opening night in Hong Kong at Return Home Hunan, a well-known chain from mainland China trying to wedge into the city’s competitive food scene.
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