Once inside Lavantha, the vault’s stark history melts away into what Lee calls a “perpetual sunset”, as one will notice at the bar where the glasses are aligned. — LEONG WAI YEE/The Star
“A HUSH beneath the stone, here in the cradle of a forgotten vault.”
That singular phrase, offered by founder Jon Lee, is the entire promise of Lavantha bar in Moxy Kuala Lumpur Chinatown, Kuala Lumpur.
For his latest act, the award- winning co-founder of the celebrated Penrose cocktail bar has taken a former bank vault in the heart of the city’s Chinatown and turned it into a peaceful retreat for serious, thoughtful drinking.
Getting there is, fittingly, theatrical. After spiralling down a staircase from the hotel lobby, one will be greeted by the original, heavy metal door of the defunct Oriental Bank.
Once inside, the vault’s stark history melts away into what Lee calls a “perpetual sunset”.
Lee, whose Egyptian heritage subtly influences the geometric, industrial decor, eschews the typical cluttered speakeasy aesthetic for one of clean, contemplative minimalism.
The space is dominated by warm terracotta and mocha tones, softened by a specially commissioned moss wall, and The Conservatory, a private room featuring a vibrant terrarium.
The room’s brutalism feel is grounded by a vertical monolith – a silent nod to the gold bars that once rested there.
The Michelada packs a savoury, balanced punch anchored by rasam distillate.
Even the square “biscuits” on the walls are functional, acting as sound absorbers to keep the huge stone space blissfully echo-free.
This is unlike the London-Soho crush of Penrose, but a lounge for bigger groups and longer contemplation, built for relaxation rather than a race to smash six drinks.
Lee, a 14-year industry veteran and qualified former chef, treats his cocktails like a detailed tasting menu.
He has organised his creations around four distinct “pillars” – Tall, Sharp, Forward and Savoury.
The Tall section offers immediate relief, exemplified by the Beau Gest (vodka, peach, tonka bean, sake and cacao). It is surprisingly clean, thanks to a milk-wash process that clarifies the drink, leaving behind a smooth, almost champagne-like creaminess akin to a refined peach yoghurt.
The tonka bean adds a toasty, almond complexity, and for a touch of flair, it is topped with a “fizz” of grape salt and sodium bicarbonate to recarbonate the drink and awaken the senses.
The menu truly expresses itself in the Savoury section, a domain where Lee’s half-Indian heritage and culinary background shine.
Lee is the founder of Lavantha.
The Michelada, described as a Bloody Mary with beer, is a masterful composition: Mezcal, clarified tomato, shishito pepper, lager and spice, anchored by an unexpectedly delicious rasam distillate.
It packs a powerful, savoury punch that manages to remain utterly balanced.
Similarly expressive is the Verduras Dune – a mojito riff incorporating rum, capers, mango and mint, with a textural lift from the Portuguese Vinho Verde wine.
If you are inclined to a Sharp profile, the Pomme (gin, apricot, apple, dill and tuberose) is a must-try, presenting a familiar yet layered, perfume-esque experience.
For the bold, the Gravastar grounds passionfruit and tequila with the shocking successful savoury-sourness of Dijon mustard and fenugreek.
The Gravastar delicately balances Dijon mustard and fenugreek.
Lavantha is a deeply personal and expressive work – both in its design and drinks.
It invites patrons to slow down, settle into the old bank booth seats and appreciate the nuanced poetry Lee has managed to coax from the stone walls.
LAVANTHA, Lower Ground Floor, Moxy Kuala Lumpur Chinatown, 1, Jalan Hang Lekiu, Kuala Lumpur. (Tel: 011-1706 3680). Business hours: 8pm-2am (Thursday to Sunday). Closed on Tuesday and Wednesday.
This is the writer’s personal observation and is not an endorsement by StarMetro.
