Okamoto's illustrious career spans acclaimed restaurant launches in Singapore and Germany, and recently, a Michelin star and a 17-point Gault Millau rating in Zurich. —CHAN TAK KONG/The Star
AS the saying goes “You never get a second chance to make a first impression”.
At Enso Izakaya & Bar, that first impression is one of sleek sophistication, far beyond the casual bar you might expect.
With warm lighting and stylish accents, the space blends the relaxed spirit of an izakaya with the elegance of an upscale restaurant.
Okamoto remains faithful to authentic Japanese cuisine, sourcing fresh seafood from Tokyo’s Toyosu Market . — Photos: CHAN TAK KONG/The Star Kaki no Uni Ikura Nose comprises Japanese oyster, sea urchin, salmon roe and lemon jelly.
In Japan, izakayas are popular for after-work gatherings known as nomikai.
Borrowing inspiration from a Japanese farmhouse, Enso’s main dining room at Hyatt Regency Kuala Lumpur at KL Midtown features an open-plan layout with semi-private areas and an impressive bar.
The restaurant extends outdoors into a breezy alfresco space and a tranquil courtyard infused with traditional Japanese elements, including a garden with water features and a 30-year-old bonsai tree.
(From right) Crispy sushi rice featuring T’lur Kaluga amur caviar, avocado, wasabi sauce, Aburi shimesaba and Gindara robatayaki.
For its name, the restaurant draws inspiration from “enso” – a hand-drawn circular brush stroke symbolising the beauty of imperfection.
As the hotel’s general manager Till Martin puts it, “The incomplete brush stroke symbolises the ever-evolving experience at Enso – where no two nights are alike.”
Imperfection, however, cannot be said of the food, as Enso delivers an elevated izakaya experience where tradition meets modern flair.
Asa no ha –fermented berry compote, matcha ice cream, ‘shiso’ oil for dessert.
Expect creative takes on Japanese classics – from artfully plated sashimi and grilled skewers to inventive small plates paired with premium sake, cocktails and Japanese whiskey.
At the helm of Enso’s kitchen is executive chef Masami Okamoto, whose illustrious career spans acclaimed restaurant launches in Singapore and Germany, and quite recently, a Michelin star and a 17-point Gault Millau rating in Zurich.
Drawing on his wealth of experience, Okamoto remains faithful to authentic Japanese cuisine, sourcing fresh seafood from Tokyo’s Toyosu Market and delighting diners with an enticing selection of izakaya dishes.
At Enso, every element – from the food and drinks to the music and crowd – converges to create a vibrant, multi-sensory dining experience.
What truly sets this space apart is the chance to enjoy inventive cocktails crafted by award-winning mixologist Ivon Soon while indulging in perfectly caramelised yakitori and appetising izakaya specialities.
To set the tone for a dining experience at Enso, Okamoto presented Kaki no Uni Ikura Nose – a signature masterpiece uniting Japanese oyster, sea urchin, salmon roe and lemon jelly in a perfect balance of brine and freshness.
Next up arrived a decadent savoury trio with crispy sushi rice featuring T’lur Kaluga amur caviar, avocado, wasabi sauce; Aburi shimesaba (skin torched mackerel, pickled ginger) and Gindara robatayaki (Binchotan charred black cod fillet, miso).
The umami-rich Asari Akadashi comes as part of the shirumon (soup) course, with delicate Asari clams in a deep, savoury red miso broth.
The miso soup prepared the palate for fresh flavours featuring the chef’s selection of seven kinds of sashimi.
Once again, food cooked on the Binchotan grill impressed.
We sampled the smoky allure of Tsukune (chicken meatballs with egg yolk); Negima (tender chicken thigh with leek); Gyukushi (M7 Australian wagyu beef meatballs), and Kohitsuji (succulent Australian lamb tenderloin).
The delectable fare, paired alongside a fine selection of shochu – Shichiken Hoshi no Kagayaki Sparkling, Toyojijin Ichiban Junmai Daiginjo and Sohomare Tokubetsu Jonjozo Kimoto – kept the evening flowing.
Soon, too, thrilled us with showmanship from behind the bar with a variety of cocktails including Ume no Kaze (Michter’s Rye, Kokuto, Umeshu, Kuromitsu, Hinoki Bitters, Orange Bitters) and Kaori Sour (Solisco Reposado, Kyuri infused Junmai Daiginjo Sake, Sansho Bitters, Foamee).
The evening continued with Okamoto’s Tempura Mori Udon, a soul-warming bowl layered with gentle, soothing flavours, and of course, crispy Japanese fritters.
No dining experience is complete without dessert, and Asa no Ha, featuring fermented berry compote, matcha ice cream and a hint of shiso oil, was the perfect finale.
ENSO Izakaya & Bar, Hyatt Regency Kuala Lumpur at KL Midtown, 7, Jalan Dutamas 2, Dutamas, Kuala Lumpur. (Tel: 03-3093 1234). Business hours: 5pm-1am (Wed, Thurs, Sun), 5pm-2am (Fri, Sat). Closed on Monday and Tuesday.
This is the writer’s personal observation and is not an endorsement by StarMetro.
