Koay (right) pouring a glass of Drunken Rum and Raisin while Khoo serves up scoops of its gelato version. — Photos: JEREMY TAN/The Star
WHEN the alchemy of mixology meets the whimsy of dessert, happy hour takes on a playfully decadent spirit.
At Drunken Gelato in George Town, Penang, cocktails and gelato dovetail in an intoxicating union that makes the exploration of flavours twice as fun.
The premise is deceptively simple – begin with premium spirits, house infusions and seasonal produce, then shake and stir, or churn and freeze.
What emerges are creations that can be sipped or scooped, each distinct in character yet harmoniously entwined, like variations of a story told through different voices.
One unfolds with every swirl of a glass, the other dissolves slowly across the palate.
From similar foundations, two experiences arise.
Take the popular Absinthe Mint Chip – inspired by the classic Martini and built on an evergreen ice-cream flavour.
Its liquid version is a herbaceous mix of absinthe and vodka served with a shard of bittersweet chocolate, while its gelato twin softens the edges with mint and crunchy bits.
Milo Guinness Bomb marries grown-up sophistication with childhood nostalgia – the cocktail using whisky, stout and cocoa to create a malty Old Fashioned riff.
In its gelato counterpart, the smoky whisky becomes an amplifier for chocolaty notes, resulting in a deeply warming yet creamy indulgence.
Seasonal flavours keep things exciting.
There is Hope You Get Rich inspired by kaya toast.
Whisky is fat-washed with buttered toast and pandan kaya, which leads to a smoky, nutty and sweet cocktail. The gelato mirrors this with oaky coconut and vanilla notes.
You would be remiss to not try the Drunken Rum and Raisin, the signature flavour which kicked off Drunken Gelato’s journey.
Purple Rizzz.
Elevated with dark rum, honey, bitters and plump raisins, it is a spirit-forward sip with treacly depth. This is balanced by a mellow, honeyed scoop that lingers on the palate.
Drunken Gelato co-founders Lorraine Tan and Wong Kelvin said the outlet’s concept originated in the quiet days of the Covid-19 pandemic, when they sought to bring a taste of nightlife to people confined at home.
Tan had an ice-cream machine lying dormant in her cafe while Wong – the mixologist helming the acclaimed Good Friends Club – was eager to experiment.
Wong said they did not want to just make ice-cream laced with alcohol, so they drew on their expertise to layer in balanced cocktail flavours.
Using gelato rather than ice-cream was a conscious choice.
The latter’s airy texture tends to mute the potency of spirits, a common gripe people have with alcoholic ice-cream.
Gelato, with its denser texture and lower fat content, carries the boozy kick better.
When Drunken Rum and Raisin debuted online in early 2021, orders came from as far away as the Klang Valley.
Subsequent flavours proved just as popular, alerting Tan and Wong to an untapped niche.
They went on to add craft cocktails to the equation – a novelty for the Penang market.
“Gelato makes you happy.
“Gelato and tipples make you even happier,” Tan reasoned.
I Purple You combines the frothy theatrics of a Ramos Gin Fizz with the flavour profile of the black glutinous rice dessert.
Drunken Gelato opened on Presgrave Street in late 2022, right across the junction from Good Friends Club along Jalan Gurdwara.
From the outside, its bright-red facade hints at a gelateria.
Inside, the atmosphere is more sassy – a retro speakeasy with chequerboard floors, neon lights and even a disco ball.
Its frozen creations all carry enough punch to make guests tipsy, without tipping into excess.
“They can be enjoyed on their own and are great options for those who cannot handle the high alcohol by volume (ABV) of drinks,” said Wong.
Tan said, “When you have the cocktail and gelato together, you’ll wonder how they share the same foundations but end up so different.
“The inherent character is the same, but taken in different directions.
“It’s divergent yet cohesive, like two sides of a coin.”
Wong said Drunken Gelato also offered standalone, boundary-pushing concoctions, some created by in-house mixologists Jack Koay and Bob Khoo.
These include Koay’s competition entry Duck and Pear, which interprets classic French dishes of duck confit and poached pear with Asian nuances.
Duck and Pear.
Brandy infused with osmanthus, spices and ginger is layered with smoked duck, pear, black tea and lemon, yielding something that is savoury, complex and contemplative all in one.
By contrast, the D&G Float gives nostalgic root beer floats an adult glow-up with rum, bitters, sarsaparilla, caramel and fizzy foam.
Purple Rizzz, derived from the black glutinous rice dessert, takes on the theatrics of a Ramos Gin Fizz, with coconut and longan enriching its frothy cream.
Ultimately, Drunken Gelato is a place that thrives on dichotomies – drinking versus desserts, familiar versus experimental.
“Eating gelato and drinking cocktails are very different things. Here, we bring them together,” Wong said.
In a city like George Town that is ever inventive and full of dualities, Drunken Gelato’s concept feels perfectly at home.
DRUNKEN GELATO, No.166, Presgrave Street, George Town, Penang. (Tel: 013-588 3816). Business hours: 8pm-1am (weekdays), 3pm-1am (weekends).
This is the writer’s personal observation and is not an endorsement by StarMetro.
