Chan at work behind the bar.
Dropped off at a pretty deserted street in Taman Paramount by an ehailing driver, the place I was headed to looked unlikely to be stumbled upon.
In the daytime, the area is probably bustling with activity, but at night Bar Terumi – nestled above a dentist and beside an aquarium – is definitely not in one of your typical nightlife zones.
For a change this week, I did not call ahead.
Walking in at 8pm on a Friday night, I had expected to see the place packed with a happy hour crowd and was worried if reservations were needed to get in.
However, this was quickly replaced by apprehension as to how the evening was going to go as the bar was starkly empty.
Bar Terumi is a zen oasis in Petaling Jaya that has been lovingly put together by famed bartender Shirmy Chan, on the heels (two years of the Covid-19 pandemic notwithstanding) of winning Bartender of the Year in 2019.
As we were shown to a couple of bar stools at the end, Chan came over to attend to us.
Ukiyo cocktail with purple potato tuille.
It seems the crowd tends to only filter in after 9pm and although only about six weeks old, Bar Terumi already has its regulars.
Nicknamed “The Tender Bar”, Chan said it reflected her view that a bartender’s job was not just to focus on making drinks but to also “be tender or care for” customers.
She definitely practices what she preaches and this was highly reflective in her attitude and also in that of her staff, who were equally as courteous and attentive to a couple that had just walked in.
Shibui – Watermelon Gibson with compressed watermelon
The bar may have been empty when we first arrived, but it was filled and alive by 9pm, so if you do not have a reservation, go early or you will not have a seat!
The bar is divided into two separate spaces (one bustling and the other more chilled). As we walked through to the more zen area, Chan shared that Bar Terumi was her first bar after 10 years in the industry and she had worked hard to bring her vision to life.
“My father’s name is Hui Mei, which translates to bright and beautiful and was the inspiration for the name Bar Terumi,” she revealed.
Incidentally, “Hui Mei” in kanji (a system of Japanese writing using Chinese characters) is “teru” and “mi”.
Majime with a homemade honeycomb biscuit.
She likened the movement the custom-built lighting had reflected on the walls to the waves in the ocean and pointed out that it paid homage to her father being a fisherman, while also adding to the zen ambience of the room.
The zen theme runs through every fibre of the establishment, even down to its signature drinks.
Its six signature cocktails have actually been arranged for easy drinking pleasure, starting from the lightest, and every drink was presented in a minimalistic yet beautiful way.
My taste views on each signature cocktail:
1 Hakanai (Guava G&T)
Light asam boi flavour because of the salted plum foam, overall refreshing and not overpowering. Loved it.
2 Ukiyo (Vodka infused with Japanese purple potato)
Mildly sour, but very pleasant to drink and came with an elegant sweet potato tuille (cookie). Another winner.
3 Hinode (Tequila sunrise)
Not quite sure how this is a tequila sunrise. But it was easy enough to drink, with just a hint of bitterness.
4 Komorebi (Sweat pea daiquiri)
Rum-based, which comes across as quite herbal/green, but with a sharp lime kick. Slightly strong, but from the stronger half of the menu this was one of my favourites of the evening.
5 Shibui (Watermelon Gibson)
Made with the brine of fermented/compressed watermelon, it packs a strong punch! I actually thought this was the strongest drink on the list, but it’s apparently the second strongest. Still, proceed with caution.
6 Majime (American bourbon with raspberry and pomegranate)
I found this one strong, but with a very sweet and fruity hit. This was actually the only sweet cocktail among their signatures and a little too sweet for my liking but enjoyed by my friends. Loved the homemade honeycomb biscuit that it came with, might order it just for that!
Bar Terumi (The Tender Bar), No.9a, Jalan 20/16, Taman Paramount, Petaling Jaya, Selangor. Business hours: 6pm to midnight (Monday to Saturday). For reservations, WhatsApp 011-5915 0308.
