FOLLOWING the results of a sleep study conducted by University Hospitals Case Medical Center, the research team at Estee Lauder were excited and couldn’t wait to get back to their labs to capitalise on what they had learnt.
Dr Nadine Pernodet, executive director of Skin Biology, Global Research and Development for The Estee Lauder Companies, together with her research team, worked on understanding the ageing process on a cellular level when there was a lack of sleep.
“We were most surprised that there was doubling of the ageing process due to lack of sleep. We were expecting the ageing process to be accelerated but doubling is a very strong figure,” said Dr Pernodet in an interview.
“This means premature ageing is going to be much faster. So, you are getting old twice as fast,” she stressed.
The new Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Recovery Complex II introduces a new technology called ChronoluxCB (CB representing catabolysis), discovered by the brand.
To help us understand what ChronoluxCB does in the new serum, Dr Pernodet explained that Estee Lauder first introduced Chronolux Technology with Advanced Night Repair in 2009.
“This technology supports the clock gene activation to synchronise the important cellular functions that occur during the 24-hour cycle,” she said.
Catabolysis was first talked about at scientific conferences, according to Dr Pernodet.
“They were showing Alzheimer’s disease or cancer, which they think are caused by a lack of catabolysis. At that time, it was about brain cells and there was no research on skin cells, so we started to conduct research in our labs.”
During the regional media launch in Hong Kong, Dr Pernodet revealed through her slide presentations that cellular functions during the day are focused on protecting skin from the environment, whilst during the night, cellular functions are focused on helping skin repair and recover.
With catabolysis also being a repair mechanism, Dr Pernodet said it was important to determine when catabolysis activity took place.
They found that catabolysis activity in young skin increases during the night and decreases during the day.
Then, they looked at mature skin cells and found no catabolysis activity during the day, and no change in activity at night.
“This means that mature skin cells have lost their ability to repair through catabolysis. Without the ability to repair, this increases DNA damage inside mature skin cells which accelerates the ageing process,” Dr Pernodet explained.
The challenge was for Dr Pernodet and her research team to find the right technology to help reactivate the natural catabolysis activity in mature skin cells and also re-establish its natural rhythm.
Discovering ChronoluxCB – which has over 25 patents including pending ones – took years of research with different active ingredients, resulting in the discovery of a mixture of an algae extract and a yeast ferment extract as the best actives.
Evidence showed that the new ChronoluxCB worked in increasing catabolysis activity in mature skin cells.
A graph showed the rhythm peaking at two hours into the night and then declining towards the morning, indicating a rhythm comparable to young cells.
Mature skin cells could repair the DNA damage by reactivating its natural catabolysis activity.
The serum is designed to be used at night or while sleeping for best results.
“For shift workers who work during the night and sleep in the day, it’s important to sleep everyday at the same time. Only when you sleep can your body have time to repair itself. If you sleep during the day, ensure you are in a dark environment that mimics night time so that all repair mechanism will take place,” Dr Pernodet advised.
“The first thing you will notice in your skin is luminosity and a healthy glow. Over two weeks to a month, you will see lines, wrinkles and pigmentation decreasing, and a more even skin tone.”
While this new product is designed to help mature skin, she said that a woman from age 25 could start using it.
“We are living in a highly-polluted environment, handle stress constantly and don’t sleep well. While you don’t see visible signs in your 20s, you will notice them in your 30s. Using it earlier will help young skin cells avoid accumulative damage and keep the cells healthy much longer,” she concluded. – Sandra Low