An Uzbek lady wearing a traditional costume posing for photos in one of the buildings in Samarkand. — Photos: SANDIP HOR
“I am confident that the architectural magnificence of these medieval monuments will captivate you,” remarked my guide Mariam as we approached the Unesco World Heritage Site of Registan Square in Samarkand, Uzbekistan.
She was indeed correct.
Upon arriving at the location, the only word that escaped my lips was “wow”, as I was greeted by three magnificent buildings surrounding a vast square.
Registan Square is a must-visit attraction in Samarkand.
In an instant, I found myself entranced by the grandeur and brilliance of these structures, each featuring large arched entrances, turquoise domes, and round towers, their exteriors lavishly adorned with azure tiles and intricate engravings.
Constructed between the 15th and 17th centuries as madrasas or Islamic educational institutions by the rulers of the Timurid dynasty, these edifices were renowned for their focus on astronomy, science, literature, and psychology. (The Timurid dynasty was established in the 14th century by Uzbek Emperor Timur Lane, also known as Amir Timur.)
The sense of awe persisted as I explored the interiors of these madrasas and the in-house mosques, where the walls and ceilings of the rooms, doors, and arched entrances are embellished with blue, alabaster, and gold mosaics, symbolising Samarkand’s affluent status during that era.
It is easy to envision the substantial funding necessary to preserve these structures.
Consequently, as a means of generating revenue, the government has leased out most of the former dormitory rooms of the madrasas to art, souvenir, and clothing shops. These businesses primarily sell glazed ceramic crafts, vibrant caps commonly worn by Uzbek men, and coats made from a traditional hand-embroidered textile known as suzani.
Where the action is
Uzbekistan, one of the only two double-landlocked countries in the world, has been the cultural heart of Central Asia for over two millennia.
Today, it is a prominent tourist destination, attracting visitors with its rich history, vibrant culture, stunning architecture, and delectable cuisine.
The majority of travellers arrive by air into Tashkent, the modern political capital of the nation, which gained independence in 1991 following the collapse of the Soviet Union. The remnants of Soviet influence are still visible in the form of old Stalinist buildings and Lada cars on the streets.
Until the 15th century, Uzbekistan served as a crucial hub along the legendary Silk Route, an overland trade path that connected the East and West, facilitating not only commerce but also the exchange of cultures and traditions.
The cities of Samarkand and nearby Bukhara were significant crossroads that drew travellers, pilgrims, and scholars from distant lands, along with camel caravans.
Samarkand boasts a rich history that predates Timur’s era by many centuries. More than two thousand years old, it is considered one of the oldest urban settlements on the planet, comparable to Babylon in Iraq and Varanasi in India. Historians assert that it was already a fortified city when Alexander the Great arrived in the 2nd century BCE.
Reflecting on his experience there, the once Great Emperor remarked, “Everything I have heard about the place is true, except it is more beautiful than I ever imagined.”
Subsequently, the region came under the rule of the Turks and Arabs – who introduced Islam – as well as the Persians. They prospered from the Silk Route trade and ethnic exchanges until 13th century when Mongol leader Genghis Khan marched in and reduced everything to rubble.
After almost a century and extensive bloodshed, Amir Timur ended the Mongol rule and went on to construct a new and legendary Samarkand, establishing it as the capital of his vast empire, which at its peak stretched from present-day Iran to India.
He was a ruthless military commander, yet he also served as a significant benefactor of art and architecture. This patronage led to the emergence of the Timurid Renaissance, which motivated him and his successors to construct mosques, madrasas, mausoleums, and monuments on an unprecedented scale, utilising artisans from throughout his extensive empire; tile-makers, architects, glass- makers, and painters from India, Persia, and Syria.
The ensemble we see today are those majestic creations.
Other attractions
While Registan Square is the crown jewel, another remarkable site that attests to this grandeur is the Shah-i-Zinda complex, a breathtaking avenue adorned with mausoleums of Timur Lane’s relatives and trusted generals. Some of these mausoleums feature exquisite tile artwork, regarded as the finest in the Islamic world, particularly the one that serves as the resting place for one of his sisters.
Interestingly, this complex does not contain the tomb of Bibi Khanym, Timur’s cherished wife. Her tomb is situated adjacent to a grand mosque that she commissioned in the 15th century. Known as the Bibi Khanym Mosque, it stands as one of Samarkand’s premier attractions, intertwining history with art and architecture.
Understandably, the most revered mausoleum in Samarkand is the final resting place of Amir Timur. Referred to as Gur-e Amir, this architecturally magnificent tomb, where he lies beneath a large slab of jade, serves as a monument of national importance, perpetually filled with locals and tourists.
I revisited many of these iconic sites at night, when there were fewer visitors, and the soft lighting created an enchanting ambiance.
Sadly, there is nothing physically present in Samarkand to truly connect with the Silk Route era other than some modern eateries that have alive the tradition of Chaikhana or a traditional Tea House, which then functioned as a resting place for fatigued travellers. These venues were important cultural hubs where merchants, traders, and locals exchanged news, ideas, and gossip while revitalising themselves.
Honouring the Silk Road’s rich history, they are named as “Chaykhana” (teahouse in Persian and related Central Asian languages) as well.
During our visit to one of these spots, we got to try some Silk Route era specialities like plov, a rice dish simmered in a big pot with meat, carrots, onions, and dried fruits. It reminded me of biriyani but with a milder kick.
We also tried samsa, a tasty meat-filled pastry baked in a tandoor oven, and shaslik, which is basically grilled meat similar to kebabs. All of this was paired with traditional green tea, sometimes topped off with a slice of fresh lemon.
The food, the tea, and even a refreshing glass of freshly squeezed pomegranate juice – super popular in Uzbekistan – really revitalised me for more adventures in this epic city.
Travel notes
How to get there: Malaysia Airlines, AirAsia X and Batik Air all fly direct to Tashkent, from where Samarkand is only two hours away via the Afrosiyob high-speed train.
Local tour operator: Orient Mice is a trusted local tour operator which can help you with all ground arrangements.
